Yes Andrews 57H, chain drive. Gears are more expensive even though I could run them. I like Andrews cams (currently running 48H) and the 57H looks to hit where I want it to.

Was hoping you'd drop in. I came across your posts about the Lefty bearing when doing my research. Everyone's so stuck in thinking you have to do Timken or you're doing it wrong. I will be doing the lefty on both case halves. I believe I picked up some Permatex Motoseal for the case halves supposed to be nice to work with. Headwork is still in the air pending funds. If I do it'll probably be a mild clean up, equalize the chambers and set compression.

The crank I ordered is something you have to get straight from S&S via a dealer. The catalog companies don't stock it. They machine their own bearing race and thrust washer and pre-install them to work with the SE Lefty bearing 24605-07. I went with the lefty bearing for two reasons. 1) I want to do the work myself, and 2) I have not found any convincing argument that I need to do Timken for a 106" build. Once you go Timken you kind of have to commit to letting someone else work on your bottom end going forward unless you go buy or make some more specialty tools. Then there's the who do you send it to that actually line bores the cases, which I think only Tman and DarkHorse do. Didn't want to mess with it or pay to have it done.

 

Ahh..Motor ****! This reads like a trashy romance novel, hurry up and post some more.

 

I don't remember when it happened but I just remember looking down and seeing the cuts and ignoring it until it was getting onto my ratchet then I stopped to wipe it up. Those throttle body fasteners were awful. I had to fab up this specialty tool to break one of them free:



1/4" philips bit duct taped to a 1/4" wrench. The 'bit' end of the bit that normally fits into your 1/4" Hex tool just so happens to be the same size allen required for the throttle body bolts. I put the big socket and and extension on the end of the wrench to crack the bolt free. That was on the cam side, the front bolt. The other 3 weren't nearly as so bad. I ordered some 12 pt intake bolts from diamond engineering to replace the allen head bolts. We'll see how they do.

Was supposed to split the cases this afternoon but plans changed. Maybe tonight or tomorrow.

 

Matt what was the price difference between the lefty friendly crank and the standard 4-3/8" assembly? Just for others who may be weighing options also..

 

Hope you don't get tired of questions, but you are well aware of my curious nature...

Darkhorse never line bored my case and I had the Timken installed by an Indy - is this bad or unusual? Think I saw some Thread about this at HTT but can't remember what was said...

 

Put a lefty on both sides of the crank and be done with it. Yes Timkens are a great upgrade but I have put together some hot motors with dual leftys and they are doing fine. You should however address the heads even if your budget is limited, as that is where the real power is made. Big Boyz heads does s nice job on them when $$ is a concern. If you do ship your heads follow this trick:

Use an old HD composite head gasket. Place one between both heads and using some allthread, nuts and washers bolt both heads together as a set using the head gasket as a cushion between both mating surfaces. That way the heads don't clank around in the box eating each other up. Bubble wrap the single "heads" and they ship great that way.

The case sealant you got works perfectly. Georges Garage makes the tools to press in-out the lefty bearings perfectly. Lightly heat the cases with a heat gun and chill the bearings in the fridge. They will lock in like nobody's business when normalized.

Looks like a smart build you got. I would have gone TW777 (what a great cam!!) but the Andrews are nice.

 

Stator and case bolts removed:



Case out of engine stand and supported on 4x4's



This part made me nervous. Not knowing how much is required to split the cases I didn't want to break anything. After discussing it with some guys on HTT I decided to keep trying with my break pad spreader and some heat applied to the sealant. I cranked the brake pad spreader down pretty tight by hand in between the motor mount mounting flanges, used the heat gun on high along the adjacent areas, and worked the spreader a little until the cases finally split.





The cam side half just slides off once the cases are split. Stopping here for now.

 

I think it's about $25 difference if just considering the flywheel. The real cost disparity is when you factor the $350~ most shops charge for Timken + S&H of your cases.

Pretty sure Darkhorse will check case alignment if you send them both case halves. I don't even think they'll do a Timken unless you send them both halves. It's not unusual, plenty of shops install Timkens using the JIMS or SE inserts just think I've read the really proper way to do it is to supply the cases and flywheel to a shop that line bores since ~2006 (don't quote me) the factory stopped matching aligned case halves when building their engines. This is all off the top of my head so I could be wrong.

 

Nice work Matt! I am starting to look at my Parts Manual and Service Manual to follow along.

That silver part on the bottom of your case, cam side - is that a part that goes with the stand you bought?

Are you going to weigh the stock flywheel and S&S one? Kinda curious if there is much of a difference.

 

Not Matt, but that's the exhaust mounting flange with three hex head bolts.