No break in required with roller lifters; oil/filter change is your call.

Call customer service or go online and get a map for the FP3 that is as close to your motor configuration as possible. Talk to the customer service techs about auto tune but it will take some riding to get it close. If the base map is not close enough, auto tune feature will not work.

 

I basically just ran it easy for a few miles to make sure I didn't hear any awkward noises and then had a party after that lol.

For the FP3, I was in a slightly different boat than you since they had not yet adapted the firmware for new cams. Chris from V&H helped me out with a custom map that worked pretty well, I may have autotuned a little. Once I had a couple hundred miles on it I rode it to a tuner a couple hours away who wanted to see how easy it was to tune with the FP3. He tweaked the map a little bit and smoothed everything out. It had run pretty well with the map that V&H supplied but better after seeing the pro.

When I changed out to the Supertrapp I went to the then added V&H cam adjustment, changed to the propipe and autotuned. I was reasonably happy took about 300 miles before I was pretty pleased but by then I had decided to do my heads, cams, etc and you know the rest!

 

Was able to get out for about 100 miles yesterday between rain storms and holy crappola is it humid! I cleared out a couple of maps I had on the FP3 and started from stock with the parameters for my bike (ProPipe, High flow AC and Andrews 57H cams). This was working better than using the last auto tune I had pre cams as a starting point. By the end of the 100 miles, the bike was working considerably smoother.
Based on the recommendations here about the breaking in, or rather, really not needing to, I took it up to 5k rpm. I really like what happens above 3.5k!!! Also, 6th gear feels much more useable. It actually feels like there is pull in 6th now.

 

A few lesson I learned when installing my cams, you have found some of them already. The oil pump does not need to come off. The rockers do not need to come off, if you get the Adjustable Pushrods. Be sure the O-ring for the oil pump return is properly in place when going back together. DO roll the motor though by hand afterwards using the rear wheel to make sure nothing is hitting internally. Make absolutely positive your cams are on the base segment before adjusting the Push roods, failure to properly do this will break the weakest point, usually that rocker bracket of yours that broke. Do not move the engine while cams are leaking down after setting preload on pushrods. You must roll the motor between pushrod adjustments to get that particular push rod cam segment in the proper position before adjusting the rods. If they are easy start cams, you also have to make sure your not on the ES button of the cam. This is really not that hard of an install, but there is little room for mistakes. Good luck, sounds like your needing some.