Talked to TR today, he said to see his current cam line up check his Facebook page.

Looks like he has some new grinds. I asked about the .600, said he is out of stock right now but he is going to continue to make it because too many people complained about him taking it out of the line up

 

Yup some new tman cams looks like.

 

Measured crank run out, .0025"

After talking with TR the other day I think I'm going to go with his 107" Pro Touring Elite Kit with the .625 cam set at 10.5:1. He suggested a HPI 55mm throttle body and to get rid of my V&H Big Shots and pick up a set of Rinehart Cross Backs.

Anything else?

 

After considering my options I have decided on a build plan that I worked out with Kirby, thanks for answering all of my emails man

Bore to 107" 10.5 CR
Ported 110" heads
T-Man .625 cams
58mm Throttle body

Kirby's comment was "this won't leave anything on the table"

I have picked up a set of Rinehart Cross Backs as well as S&S premium tappets, quickee push rods and forged roller rockers. Going to use a Barnett Scorpion lock up clutch to back it up.

Next step is to find a Tuner, any recomendations for the central Ohio area? I'm willing to travel. I can get a map to get started from Fuel Moto since I bought my Power Vision there.

Is there anything I'm overlooking?

 

Maybe I've been doing too much internet reading while waiting on my parts, but it seems to me that quite a few people have problems with their builds that happen during assembly or suffer damage right at start up. I have built hundreds of engines over the years, mostly big trucks and equipment, Cat, Cummins, Detroit - 2 and 4 stroke, and I have had really good success over the years but I'm starting to get up in my head about this one. Other than basic engine building procedures, is there anything unique to these engines? Harley specific items to look out for? I have my factory service manual and plan on going over everything with Kirby before I start assembling this thing, but right now all my mind can do is wander.

 

Most likely you will not have anything to worry about if Kirby is setting up the heads to the cam and Pistons. Just make sure you turn the motor over by hand to ensure valve to piston clearance before just cranking it over. Sometimes some people don't really understand how to preload the lifters and run into slap. That can hurt. .140" is good..... Good luck and enjoy.....

 

Measure and record squish, piston to valve clearance, check and record compression after break in, go slow and keep everything clean. The cylinder and rings will have machine dust on them and will need to be cleaned with hot soap/water just before installation. The cylinder should be "white glove" clean. Do not use assembly lube on piston/rings; very light coat of oil is all that is required, some builders install them dry. Do not break in on synthetic oil; I like Shell Rotella 15W40 but there are others.

Avoid a lot of heat cycles, one or two for a minute or so to listen for funny noises and to check for leaks followed by a short ride. Find a tuner that has experience with breaking in a motor on the dyno and get the bike on the dyno ASAP. This can be done with some less than WOT pulls just to set the AFR in a good spot for break in. Run 100 miles, keep rpms under 4000. Most will say to dump the oil after the first 100 miles but keep the filter, change oil and filter after 500 miles and get back on the dyno at 1000 miles, tune, change oil and filter again and ride anyway you want. Not saying that's the best way; there is also the Motoman break in procedure absent a dyno break in. You will have to do your homework and make those decisions for yourself but the breakin is, IMHO, the most important part of the build process.

Keep notes, take pictures, document as best you can because I can guarantee there will come a time when you will want to recall something from memory and you won't be able to.

Nothing special about the HD vtwin, you won't have any problem if you use the service manual, don't get in a hurry, follow basic engine building means and methods and if not sure about something, ask somebody.

 

I have been wanting to update this thread for a while, life is crazy busy and I probably picked the wrong time to do this project. Got all of my parts in and got the cylinders and pistons together last weekend, measured deck height and I have .002 front and .003 rear, so I'm pretty happy with that. Put the cam chest together Saturday with the S&S pump and plate. Bolted the heads on late Saturday night, after taking a break to attend a friend's birthday party, and didn't bother turning the motor over. I did check piston to valve clearance by removing the springs and placing the head on the cylinder without the gasket, pushed the valves down until they contacted the piston and then put masking tape around the stem. Removed the head and measured between the tape line and the top of the seal, didn't record the number because it was over .500 and I figured I was in the clear. Re installed the springs, installed the heads and torqued them, it was late so I went to bed. Some time during the night I remembered about "valve lift @ TDC", when I got up I looked up my cam specs, intake .215 exhaust .204, still in the clear with the valves. Had some time after the Father's Day activities later in the afternoon so I went back to work, made a socket for the ACR's and installed them, installed the rocker cover bases, drilled out the oil return holes in the supports, installed some S&S roller rockers, and Rockouts. May not have needed the Rockouts, shafts still fit nice and snug in the supports and there were no witness marks on the bolts or rocker shafts, nice to know they are there though. I went to install my S&S Quickee push rods and figured out they are not going to work with my push rod tubes. I remember reading that there may be an issue with this but the tubes were already at the powder coater so I decided to try, oh well. Thought I would roll the motor over and get the lifters in position before I called it done for the night. Thats when the second issue arose, motor won't turn all the way over. After watching the pistons through the spark plug hole I figured out this was happening at TDC. Pulled the heads back off and found the piston dome contacting the head.

Front


Rear


I emailed Kirby this morning and I'm sure he will come up with a solution, I'm just sharing my experience to reinforce check double check and triple check.

Any suggestions on the push rod tubes S&S seem kind of pricey and some say the clips are not included

 

You can always cut your tubes shorter. But some tape on the line so you won't mess up the powder coating

 

I spoke with Kirby on Monday, he checked a set of pistons he had on the shelf and they made contact too. Apparently CP didn't machine this batch of pistons correctly and I got the first set. Heads and pistons are on their way back to Kirby to get straightened out.