There are several good cam choices for a 107" motor. Just have to remember that with an 85cc chamber, static CR is going to be around 10.4, so any cam with an intake close earlier than 40* could be a problem. A cam like the S&S 585 should work well but there are others. There may be a slight increase in valve train noise but if set up properly, valve train noise shouldn't be an issue. The exception to that rule is some of the Wood cams that have fast and aggressive ramps; they can be noisy. Heavier than necessary valve springs can also add to top end noise. Quality valve lifters will mitigate valve train noise as well because they maintain a tight valve train.

If you are thinking cam first for the 96", the Andrews 48 is a popular bolt in for a cam only upgrade to an otherwise Stage I motor. Once you decide to go the bigger bore route, you shouldn't have any trouble selling the 48. If/when you decide to go bigger bore, find a shop that will work with you on an exchange basis for the top end and rely on their exprience in selecting a cam set.

 

Andrews 48. How does that compare to the Andrews 54? Fullsac recommends andrews 54 but all the threads I read about the 54 are 103 builds. ???
Also while replacing cams what would be a good lifter to use? I have 30k miles on her now and might be a good time to change those as well.

 

As I said in my previous, the increased bore of the 103" motor increases compression which requires a cam with an intake close later than the 48. The 48 intake closes at 29* ABDC and the 54 intake closes at 42*ABDC. The difference in CCP would be about 15psi which means a 96" motor set up at say 185psi CCP, bored to 103" with no other changes would see a CCP at 200psi; likely difficult to tune and would be prone to detonation.

The 54 would be soft on the bottom in a 96" motor; the 48 a better choice as cam only upgrade.

Replacing lifters is not a bad idea. CompCam VThunder 850-1 lifters are decent and cheap; about $65 to your door. From there you can spend more, up to the $300 range. S&S lifters are a popular choice and they offer lifters at different price points; Gaterman seems to be the lifter de jour rignt now; Woods lifters seem to have run the course but IMHO are a good piece; HQ Black Ops lifters have been around a while and CYCO is now offering lifters at a good price but I don't know anything about them, like who makes them or where they are made. Do some research but any quality lifter will work.

 

If you do a cam upgrade to the Andrews 48's, you may decide you don't really need to go with a big boar kit later...or at least you won't be in a big rush. It depends on what you are looking for....but the 48's make a big difference on a 96. The bike will be lots more fun to ride.

I would replace lifters at 30K. Inner cam bearings will need to be replaced as well.

I've had good luck with both Gaterman and S&S lifters. The Gaterman 1023's are a quality product at a reasonable price. S&S also makes a high quality product, but a bit more expensive. Any high quality aftermarket lifter will be superior to HD or S/E's current offerings.

I'm currently running the Gaterman's with Andrews 48 cams and have zero issues.

 

I think Im going to go with Andrews 48 cam upgrade with lifters, pushrods and bearings. I found a great youtube video on changing out the cams and pushrods but what about the lifters? Any tips tricks or step by step for lifters? I read something about lash and other tolerances and id like to try and do this myself and do it right the first time.
Read alot of good things on compcams lifters, and was looking at andrews ez install adj pushrods. I see two different versions available, just pushrods, and pushrods with covers. Will my stock covers fit the adjustables or do I need that whole kit?
Thanks again for all the feedback.

 

Not sure which video you watched, but the S&S cam install video is one of the better ones. It goes into cam change, lifters, and pushrod adjustment:


If you go with EZ install pushrods you will need the kit with covers. The stock covers are longer and will cover the adjusters. The kit will make it easy to adjust the pushrods.

 

smith bros sale push rod u can keep ur stock tube i think around 140$ i used it do the job

 

Great pushrods but a PITA to adjust with OEM tubes; a PITA with the right tubes as well. For $135, a set of SE Tapered Quick Installs can be had from an online discount dealer. Kit includes pushrods, tubes and o-rings. PN 18404-08 IIRC.

 

Can anyone confirm this would be the gasket kit needed and if the 2 brown o-rings are for the oil suction pump? TIA

 

That kit will work. The two small brown o-rings are for the the suppy and return pasages from the oil pan. You will need a separate o-ring for the scavenge port. It's the same as the o-ring at the top of the pushrod tube in the cylinder head; PN 11293.