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Interesting problem

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  #71  
Old 10-31-2014, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tmanbuckhunter
You should use TIG and 1/16th filler for the nut thing. Mig tacks aren't strong enough. Just stick your tungsten out further and increase your argon over 30cfh.
just stick your tongue out further in the crease?
 
  #72  
Old 10-31-2014, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Duracell
just stick your tongue out further in the crease?
Damn twinkie riders.
 
  #73  
Old 10-31-2014, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by tmanbuckhunter
Damn twinkie riders.


 
  #74  
Old 10-31-2014, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tmanbuckhunter
You should use TIG and 1/16th filler for the nut thing. Mig tacks aren't strong enough. Just stick your tungsten out further and increase your argon over 30cfh.
I don't have the experience or education to understand one damn thing you said...

I just hope the guy that said he could get it out knows what he is doing.
I'm going to guess he does because he works as a welder at a muffler shop for a living.

I've never welded a damn thing in my life.
 
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Old 10-31-2014, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Beemervet
You know it is kinda pretty that way!!!!
 
  #76  
Old 10-31-2014, 09:24 PM
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Is that bolt #3 that goes into bracket #32?

How much is a new bracket??

Drill out the through bushing and bolt #3 at the same time from the back side.

UPDATE

My Bad, I see that on your bike the upper bracket is bolted to the frame, in my parts manual it is welded to the frame.
It became apparent when the manual called for two #3 bolts but my picture only shows one. ( The lower)
 

Last edited by Kabear; 10-31-2014 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Stupidity
  #77  
Old 10-31-2014, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kabear
Is that bolt #3 that goes into bracket #32?

How much is a new bracket??

Drill out the through bushing and bolt #3 at the same time from the back side.

UPDATE

My Bad, I see that on your bike the upper bracket is bolted to the frame, in my parts manual it is welded to the frame.
It became apparent when the manual called for two #3 bolts but my picture only shows one. ( The lower)
That option isn't off the table.
 
  #78  
Old 11-01-2014, 07:43 AM
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Get the smallest "nail set" you can find. (They make them to set different size finishing nails) Get a really good one.

Place on drill bit and using a single stroke of the hammer hit the set like you are setting a nail, this should shatter the bit. The difference between a "set" and a "punch" is the set has a machined ring on the end. This drives into the top of the nail and keeps it centered while the hammer applies the force. If you look at a nail after it is "set" you will notice the indenture in the nail, this is where the stress will come from to shatter the bit.

A "punch" OTOH is just pointed and does not set up the stress force, just makes a dimple in what ever you are driving, sometimes they are blunt and just applies a force to push through without applying and kind of stress force to the object.

2) If you can get to a couple of inside threads in the bracket, get a "Bottom Tap" of the correct pitch and diameter. This is a tap that isn't pointed on the advancing end but flat and is designed to cut threads to the bottom of the hole you are tapping. When asking for one of these if that person looks at you like your are standing there with your dick out there is an alternative. Take a regular tap of correct size and cut the end off. The tap is really hard and brittle also, now shape or make sure the bottom is "flat" and full diameter, start the tap in the hole. Make small headway and back out and vacuum or blow out any loose material. Do this until it bottoms out, no oil, work slooooooowly.
As the tap advances it will crush the drill bit and remove the old bolt. This is risky if you can only start with a couple of threads, three is recommended. On the plus side you may not save the original diameter of the hole but all you will need to do is drill out the bracket to the next size bolt and re-tap the hole.

That casting is made with enough meat to allow for this, as long as the bushing side is 1/3 of the diameter of the hole you will be OK as far as strength of the fitting goes. And it may not be that size now, which means that there is enough meat to accomplish the task and the strength of the fitting lies else where and not through this bolt hole.
 
  #79  
Old 11-01-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Kabear
Get the smallest "nail set" you can find. (They make them to set different size finishing nails) Get a really good one.

Place on drill bit and using a single stroke of the hammer hit the set like you are setting a nail, this should shatter the bit. The difference between a "set" and a "punch" is the set has a machined ring on the end. This drives into the top of the nail and keeps it centered while the hammer applies the force. If you look at a nail after it is "set" you will notice the indenture in the nail, this is where the stress will come from to shatter the bit.

A "punch" OTOH is just pointed and does not set up the stress force, just makes a dimple in what ever you are driving, sometimes they are blunt and just applies a force to push through without applying and kind of stress force to the object.

2) If you can get to a couple of inside threads in the bracket, get a "Bottom Tap" of the correct pitch and diameter. This is a tap that isn't pointed on the advancing end but flat and is designed to cut threads to the bottom of the hole you are tapping. When asking for one of these if that person looks at you like your are standing there with your dick out there is an alternative. Take a regular tap of correct size and cut the end off. The tap is really hard and brittle also, now shape or make sure the bottom is "flat" and full diameter, start the tap in the hole. Make small headway and back out and vacuum or blow out any loose material. Do this until it bottoms out, no oil, work slooooooowly.
As the tap advances it will crush the drill bit and remove the old bolt. This is risky if you can only start with a couple of threads, three is recommended. On the plus side you may not save the original diameter of the hole but all you will need to do is drill out the bracket to the next size bolt and re-tap the hole.

That casting is made with enough meat to allow for this, as long as the bushing side is 1/3 of the diameter of the hole you will be OK as far as strength of the fitting goes. And it may not be that size now, which means that there is enough meat to accomplish the task and the strength of the fitting lies else where and not through this bolt hole.

I like the idea of the nail set but I'm not so sure of using a tap to crush the drill bit.

Have you personally done it?
 
  #80  
Old 11-01-2014, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Kabear
Get the smallest "nail set" you can find. (They make them to set different size finishing nails) Get a really good one.

Place on drill bit and using a single stroke of the hammer hit the set like you are setting a nail, this should shatter the bit. The difference between a "set" and a "punch" is the set has a machined ring on the end. This drives into the top of the nail and keeps it centered while the hammer applies the force. If you look at a nail after it is "set" you will notice the indenture in the nail, this is where the stress will come from to shatter the bit.

A "punch" OTOH is just pointed and does not set up the stress force, just makes a dimple in what ever you are driving, sometimes they are blunt and just applies a force to push through without applying and kind of stress force to the object.
Might have to try the nail set punch, trick. I always use a punch & hammer & most always able to bust out, whats left of a carbide drill. Been a machinist over 30 yrs & best way to get a carbide drill out. If it were carbide center drill ,you would be screwed! I NEVER use carbide to drill unless I have no other option, which is very rare. Use high-speed, & in the event you do break it off, you can still get it out. When you weld on carbide, or try to, its gonna get even more brittle, so I don't think it will hold. Use a lot of compressed air & safety glasses. hth

Ride Safe,
Harold
 


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