with all the futzing around ive done with carbs in my life, I really wish there was a simple (AKA powerful) EFI (delphi) kit I could just bolt on my 124 and go. years of tuning cars got me REAL familiar with it, and used to being able to adjust timing tables and fuel curves in as low as 100rpm increments


I seriously looked at modifying my rig for a Delphi setup, and cried a little inside when I hit $2k. the carb works well enough lol

 

Look at a microsquirt, Jasper. DIYAutotune.com carries them. Then add in a throttle body and injector set from a EFI big twin or maybe a Buell, a few sensors like Cylinder Head, Intake Air (I made them from cheap thermistors, couple bucks each), a fuel pump/regulator and a oxygen sensor and start tuning.

 

Promise to leave you alone for awhile

Cannot tell me that I'm the only one that has delivered a big cube engine in a garbage can? Plus we all know Jasper is nuts so I'm not trying to walk in his shoes.

Usually with a Wego AFR targets are 13.2 wide open throttle, 14.2 at cruise and 14.2 idle. I found with compression 13.8 at cruise will accellerate slightly quicker, helps tame roll on detonation and like the idle at 13.8 also but like anything it is debatable in the eyes of the beer holder. Tried the big cube engine at 13.2 and 13.8, that was a notta, more fuel into the 12.8 and 13.2 at idle because the heat ran rapid running AFR's at a normal level and would shut off at idle.

Usually install the Wego O2 sensor in the front pipe although theory is the rear cylinder runs hotter because of less air but almost positive carbs send more more fuel to the rear. Would be a good in stone test if someone feel froggy or has already switched sensors around.

Big no no is to run a octane booster through that O2 sensor or lead additive, they are some touchy units and heated wide bands are expensive. Have noticed that the Daytona Sensors Wego's hold their calibrations well and free air adjustment isn't needed very often . If you are data recording EFI with the Wego, try your best to not slow down with a closed throttle, you get to see the meaning of reversion, it will go to 19.0 and EFI will blend the cells giving false AFR's

 

Now I'm at a crossroad. Like posted before, read it on the net to sample the rear. But if you went with the front, I'll probably follow suite. But I did order a extra bung, ( only one plug to seal the hole when done) & feel froggy I may do a run & then switch. Depends on time frame. Have a couple of weeks to think it over.

Ride Safe,
Harold

 

mine is dual wide band and yes the front runs a little leaner than the rear but its not enough to really make a difference. so you can put it in front or back my duel display will read 13.7 front and 13.5 rear cruising at 75mph. one thing I did find out was the bung location is important. the first time I welded them to close to the heads and I got false readings so I put them down about 12" from the head and it worked perfect.

 

Thanks for that info. Just what I was looking for. I would have put it closer to the head. Glad this thread got started.

Ride Safe,
Harold

 

Ok, its been a while but finally got the Lowrider, almost done. I was gonna start my own thread, but this one seems to be at a stand still, so I'll post here. Got bike started & timed today & Wego is online. Took a few pics to share the journey:

Gotta weld the bung in.






You WILL have to chase the threads after the bung is welded in, so do yourself a favor & order a tap when you order the unit or you WILL have problems!




It was easier for me to put the pipe on the bike with the heat shield & mark the pipe with a paint pen, using the bung & the heat shield as a guide. Went down, about 12' from exhaust port, per Dales suggestion. Be very careful when you do this ! Not a lot of room for error!


I made a bracket to mount the WEGO to the handlebars instead of using zip ties. Had some scrap aluminum in my tool box & made a simple bracket to mount it on. I did use small zip ties to keep the small wires together & one of their bread ties that came with the unit to wire the USB cord to the handlebars.








The unit seems to be working as I was able to adjust the idle mixture screw, after bike had warmed up, & adjust my idle AFR. Pretty neat. No muss, no fuss.
I still have to bleed my brakes & tighten the drive belt up & I'll be ready to get on the road. Probably be next week-end before I start tuning & probably need a helping hand in interpreting these graphs.

Ride Safe,
Harold

 

looks good you went all out on that mount.

 

Cool. I'm looking forward to info. I'll second the heavy duty bracket.

 

OK. Made 2nd run with Wego, today & something is not set right. Bike runs great but when I get back & download the file to the laptop & open it up, the RPM graph looks like its 180 out of orientation. I can sort of see the AFR gragh but the RPM graph,looks upside down. These are how I set up the Wego Parameters:
Data Logging Interval/ .3
RPM Pulses/Rev/ .5
RPM Debounce/ .5 (Default)
Hooked the brown wire to front terminal on the coil.
What am I missing?
Any body have a answer, post away. Any help appreciated.
Also attaching the file I made today so you can see what I'm talking about.

Ride Safe