Anyone have any tricks for timing an Ultima 56-644 dynamicly with timing lite?

On my old stock module I drilled the back plate and was able to do the timing from the cam side with the timing lite. Past couple years I've been running the ignition with the static timing ...

• STATIC TIMING THE MOTOR
Remove the timing inspection plug. With the bike in high gear turn the rear wheel to get the crankshaft to top dead center on the compression
stroke of the front cylinder (TDC mark aligned in the inspection hole). Removing the spark plugs will make it easier to turn the crank.
Rotate the ignition to cause the status LED to turn off and on. Carefully follow this next instruction: find the point where the LED just turns off
while rotating the base plate in a clockwise direction. Lock down the ignition. The initial timing is now set close to optimum. Final timing may
be checked and set dynamically to compensate for normal production tolerances in the timing rotor, camshaft indexing, flywheel marking, etc.
If the ignition has to be rotated an extreme amount or does not have enough adjustment to bring the timing in, the engine may be on its
exhaust stroke. Remove the ignition and observe the timing rotor. The timing pickup (near the switches) should be sitting in one of the
windows with the ignition installed . The shorter distance to the other window should be CLOCKWISE. If not, rotate the crankshaft 1
revolution and check again.

I've never been real happy with the way the motor sounds although I have been told that static timing is sufficient.If you guys have some way of timing with the lite other than trying to see through a plastic view piece I'd really appreciate hearing about it.
Thanks

 

the window is 10 degrees from center 5 foward and 5 to the rear - side car bikes we move the line just foward of the center to take a couple of degrees out for pulling a car with a passenger -- and on bikes that seem sluggish we stop just before the 12 oclock mark 2 degrees in one direction or another does not change much but it does fix some issues for some customers

 

Thanks much appreciated although I'm looking for a way not to deal with the misty window.

 

Drain the oil from the primary, remove inspection cover, line up the max advance line in the timing hole, mark the rotor and case, now you can shoot the timing through the inspection cover.

You can mark TDC if using a dial back timing light.

 

Thanks Schex3x that is an excellent idea.

 

If you static timed it already just try each of the 4 switch settings and use the one that works best. The best setting may not line up with the timing mark so it is probably a waste of time to dynamically time it to the mark. Unless the motor is bone stock of course.

If you want to tune it for racing or kick starting get one of these programming cables for $25 bucks: https://sites.google.com/site/vrusb2000i/
It works on Dynatek 2000i/2Ki ignitions too.

 

Thanks I never thought of it this way before.

 

Dang, I just ordered one yesterday for $30.

 

Just checking in to see how this turned out. I am timing my evo with the same ignition tomorrow night.

 

It worked perfect, takes a bit to setup for tdc but once crank is on tdc front cylinder compression stroke and rotor and inner are marked using a dial back timing lite is a breeze. I did find though that each step on the ignition is the exact degrees so really there was no benefit to using the timing lite.