Lynn,

Just bit the bullet and bought the Workshop Manual for the bike, not cheap BUT, might pay for itself in time.

 

The only way it won't is if you use an indy for all your repairs.
The first time you fix something yourself it will pay for itself.

BTW I recommend getting the parts manual for your bike too.

 

That manual costs less than an hour's labour at a dealer - almost pays for itself the first time you read something new, let alone actually use it to do a job! The parts book gives us exploded diagrams, also tells us what every fastener is, so we can buy them at a hardware store, avoid mixing threads and a whole lot more. Having owned bikes since the '60s I reckon the Harley manuals are probably the best on the planet.

 

I actually just ordered one on eBay yesterday for $25. There are others available, most were anywhere from $40-$80. Just keep your eyes open, and google the p/n for the parts manual.

 

A parts manual would be very useful. Looks like I'll be searching for that as well.

The Workshop Manual I got was (supposedly) the Official HD One at a cost of $75. I saw Haynes and others but decided on the HD one as it is specific to only the 97 and 98 FLSTC. Now all I will need to do is understand it

 

Some shop manuals are better than others for sure. I actually have 3 different ones for my '91. A '91 Paper factory shop manual, a '91-'92 digital copy of a different factory shop manual, and a Clymers manual that covers even more model years. They each have a majority of the same info, and they each also have different things to offer. So I refer to the 2 paper copies at home and when on the road or at work I go to the digital copy on my phone or pc. Can never have too much information I say. I have been buying Haynes manuals my whole life. But as I get older and the jobs get more technical, I now go right for the factory service manuals. Thanks god for ebay and used books!

 

I know it's been said BUT...

Adjust clutch... if this doesn't fix it, adjust the shifter cam, if this doesn't fix it, pull the lid off of the trans, look in your shop manual for procedure, and adjust the pawl. If this doesn't fix it, you probably have a bent shift fork.

Do what Graham said... rev match before down shifting. Pull in the clutch, give the throttle a good blip, and drop a gear down.

 

I'm going to adjust it this weekend. Fairly certain that will do it. There is literally no lag when I release the clutch lever bike starts moving immediately. That tells me its right on the edge. Plus I want to dump that HD trans/primary fluid and switch it out to the ATF Valvoline TypeF. Be good for a quick flush anyways.

 

Agree with what has been said about rev matching when down changing. If you do that you will find that your gear changes will be smoother and will prevent any "grinding" on the change.

If your not doing that now (rev matching) that could be a lot or part of the problem that you have experienced making a clutch adjustment seem obvious. Not saying your clutch might or doesn't need an adjustment just that NOT rev matching will/could make it sound as though it does or make it more obvious that it does.

 

I'm no stranger to riding motorcycles. They are all different tho I must say. To me its all second nature, when to shift I mean. I go by feel, always have. I learned how to drive a stick shift at a very young age on the farm. And there was always a motorbike around. BUT none of them were a Harley of course, lol. I am still leaning towards the clutch not being properly adjusted as mentioned before. Bike only has 39k miles on it. I am 3rd owner and the guy I bought it from had it for a cpl years and only put a cpl thou miles on it. And basically neglected it the whole time he had it. So I consider myself the 2nd owner, and I rescued it. Original owner took good care of it I am sure. It's in good shape. Thanks much!