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Tranny usually hard to shift from 5th down to 4th?

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  #51  
Old 04-24-2015, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Beemervet
.....and two qts is way too much.
Waaaaaaaay too much.
 
  #52  
Old 04-27-2015, 03:53 AM
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Ok so its done. I adjusted the clutch per manual. Pretty simple. Dumped the HD primary/trans fluid I had in there and added back in "44oz" of ATF-TypeF fluid. Manual calls for 38-44oz. The 44oz put it at the bottom of the clutch spring plate. We went for a nice cruise and it is much better. I do find it is better when I rev match as suggested (Thanks) when dropping from 5th to 4th. All other gears feel normal, and Neutral is easy to find again. This has been a great and informative discussion which led me to be just that much more intimate with my EVO, lol. Thanks everyone!


And yes I would agree that 2qts would be too much, lol.
 

Last edited by DeputyLoud; 04-27-2015 at 07:32 AM.
  #53  
Old 04-27-2015, 08:04 AM
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Glad to see you got your problems taken care of. You'll learn with Evo's that there will always be something going on that needs tending to, but it's always an easy fix and it's never anything really complicated 98% of the time. That is part of owning a machine with soul I guess.
 
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by tmanbuckhunter
Glad to see you got your problems taken care of. You'll learn with Evo's that there will always be something going on that needs tending to, but it's always an easy fix and it's never anything really complicated 98% of the time. That is part of owning a machine with soul I guess.
Thanks! When I bought it, I can honestly say I didn't even know what an EVO was. LOL!

In hind sight I am glad I did buy it, instead of a newer twinkie. So much easier to work on, like an old hot rod. Main reason I did buy it was I couldn't believe I could be on a decent touring bike for $5K, let alone a Harley. Couldn't pass it up. I have since put another $5K into it by dressing it up and upgrading the 24yr old hardware where needed. Not done yet. May never be, but that's ok. I love it! And so does my wife, she cracks me up. Last night when we left for a cruise she was hooting and hollering whenever I would get on it from a stop, or when passing cars in 4 lane traffic. I can honestly say she loves riding just as much as I do.
 
  #55  
Old 04-27-2015, 03:17 PM
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Wait until you tear into the engine, which you will be eventually. Nothing to it. I can rip a top end off in less than 30 minutes probably.
 
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Old 04-27-2015, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tmanbuckhunter
Wait until you tear into the engine, which you will be eventually. Nothing to it. I can rip a top end off in less than 30 minutes probably.
30 minutes huh???
Can you find all the parts and are they usable????

Takes me a couple of hours.
 
  #57  
Old 04-27-2015, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tmanbuckhunter
Wait until you tear into the engine, which you will be eventually. Nothing to it. I can rip a top end off in less than 30 minutes probably.
Is that will motor in frame?
 
  #58  
Old 04-27-2015, 06:02 PM
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DeputyLoud and Wombat, as others have posted, based on my experience I agree that a clutch adjustment is in order. When the clutch isn't fully disengaging it's tough to find neutral.

You may have enough adjustment left on the cable housing - I did on both my Evo and my TC to get the clutch working properly. Just unlock the lock nut on top and see if you can make the cable housing long enough to engage mid-stroke on the lever. Saves fooling around with the adjustment under the derby, and HD gives us a fair amount of adjustment on the housing adjuster.

Also, as it states in the Evo owners manual (at least my 1995 manual), you can only get into neutral from first - not from second. Once I read that I cut my missed neutral problems by 50%, and after I adjusted the cable housing, I had no more problems ever. TC's can go into neutral from first or second BTW.
 
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DeputyLoud
So I have all the oil in hand now. Still seems strange to be putting TypeF-ATF fluid in the primary. But I trust you guys. And I am not going to dilly dally on the amount per all your suggestions. Just gonna fill it to the bottom of the derby cover and button it up after adjustment of the clutch.
Amazon.com: Valvoline VV341 Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F - 1 Quart: Automotive

Figure I may as well flush the Trans fluid while I am at it too. Using Valvoline 80w-90 in that.
Amazon.com: Gear Oil, High Performance, 32 Oz, 80W-90 VV831: Automotive

And again I thank all of you for your feedback and suggestions!
Why are you putting type F in your primary where your clutches are? Type F was for old Ford transmissions and the particular clutch material they used. A quick google search confirmed my memory that it went out of favor in 1977.

I have a feeling you're never going to get your clutch to disengage with that stuff in there. I believe that type F has no friction modifiers, and so the clutch will be like running your posi rear end without friction modifiers, it'll bind up too tight.

Just my opinion, but I'd stick with the HD specified fluids and fill amounts. They're more expensive than others, but you don't need much so it's not a lot of money.
 
  #60  
Old 04-27-2015, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
30 minutes huh???
Can you find all the parts and are they usable????

Takes me a couple of hours.
Takes me no time to have the rocker gear off... I've had to take it off a few times after the rebuild to re-do things I wanted to do differently, and for a bad push rod tube o-ring. The heads are just 8 bolts away, jugs slide off.

Originally Posted by glidein wide
Is that will motor in frame?
Yes.
 


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