EFI Problems
#11
#12
Forgot...consider avoiding the use of lowering blocks on the rear.
There have been reports of the rear fork/swingarm developing a crack just in front of the axle bolt.
The square metal axlwe developed a full depth crack.
Each time it was reported, it seemed like lowering blocks were used at some time.
There have been reports of the rear fork/swingarm developing a crack just in front of the axle bolt.
The square metal axlwe developed a full depth crack.
Each time it was reported, it seemed like lowering blocks were used at some time.
# 2 my odometer is fully unreadable now. Has been for about 6 months.
Trip meter still clear. So I guess I will have to estimate my actual mileage for the replacement ?
#13
You inform them of the miles when ordering.
The speedometer arrives with the requested miles entered.
If you buy used..the used bike miles are in the speedometer and will not be changed by a dealer.
The replacement speedometer available is not plug and play and requires changing your hard wired version to the newer plug version.
#14
I've heard alot of talk about how there are problems with the early MM fuel injection and recommendation to convert to carb.
My question, what are the problems ? Or what symptoms do you see and when did they start showing up ?
I have a 98 RKC with 56,000 miles. Stock except for seat and bars.
It runs flawless to date. I've only rebuilt the brake master cylinders.
I ride alot of 1700 mi round trips from Ky to FL to visit family.
After reading here about evo EFI now I'm getting paranoid about break downs,
The one thing that does get to me is the fuel pump humming away for those 24 hr round trips. If that goes out I'm dead in the water.
Thanks
My question, what are the problems ? Or what symptoms do you see and when did they start showing up ?
I have a 98 RKC with 56,000 miles. Stock except for seat and bars.
It runs flawless to date. I've only rebuilt the brake master cylinders.
I ride alot of 1700 mi round trips from Ky to FL to visit family.
After reading here about evo EFI now I'm getting paranoid about break downs,
The one thing that does get to me is the fuel pump humming away for those 24 hr round trips. If that goes out I'm dead in the water.
Thanks
#16
Beautiful RK Al. I have always liked that 98' anniversary two-tone color combo.
I would just ride the hell out of the thing. Any year bike can put you on the side of the road. Like most things electrical, the electronic portion of the M&M EFI system is either going to work or it is not. The mechanical portion could work part ways I suppose. But if the bike runs well I wouldn't worry about it.
When I bought my 97' FLHTCH-I with 42,000 miles on it 2 years ago, it was hard to start cold. Once it warmed up it ran and started fine. I found I could get the bike to start with a little throttle and then used my cruise-mate to hold the throttle open until the bike warmed up enough to idled on its own. I road the bike like this for a few months.
Then thanks to help on this site, I looked at the Idle Speed Control (IAC) motor and found it was Inop. $80 for a new motor and a little wrenching and the bike starts like new.
Like someone already posted, the M&M EFI gets a bad rap. Mostly because it is not friendly to mods. With your bike being stock, it should run well for many years. My bike is stock too with the exception of Screamin Eagle pipes. It seems to run well with the M&M EFI and SC pipes as I am running a stock air filter element.
Good luck and enjoy the ride! G.B.
I would just ride the hell out of the thing. Any year bike can put you on the side of the road. Like most things electrical, the electronic portion of the M&M EFI system is either going to work or it is not. The mechanical portion could work part ways I suppose. But if the bike runs well I wouldn't worry about it.
When I bought my 97' FLHTCH-I with 42,000 miles on it 2 years ago, it was hard to start cold. Once it warmed up it ran and started fine. I found I could get the bike to start with a little throttle and then used my cruise-mate to hold the throttle open until the bike warmed up enough to idled on its own. I road the bike like this for a few months.
Then thanks to help on this site, I looked at the Idle Speed Control (IAC) motor and found it was Inop. $80 for a new motor and a little wrenching and the bike starts like new.
Like someone already posted, the M&M EFI gets a bad rap. Mostly because it is not friendly to mods. With your bike being stock, it should run well for many years. My bike is stock too with the exception of Screamin Eagle pipes. It seems to run well with the M&M EFI and SC pipes as I am running a stock air filter element.
Good luck and enjoy the ride! G.B.
#17
I've got a 98 RKC with 68k miles on it. The only problem the FI system has given me is the head temp sensor. I've replaced it 3 times. The last two only lasted 20,000 miles. It's a very easy fix.
I also had the odometer problem. Had to put in a new one. I called HD corporate and the guy found me a few floating around in dealerships across the country. I got mine for half price from a place in Georgia. The guy who wanted it never picked it up and it had been set from the factory with 18k on it. It had also been laying around for 10 years. There is one at a dealership in MI with zero miles on it but the guy wants $500 for it and knows he may have the only one left like that. $250 buys a lot of calculators.
Anyway, the speedometer replacement job took me about a day but I did everything slow and by the book. Came out fine. The only thing was a leftover pink wire that had "pursuit" next to it on the wiring diagram. Probably a police option.
I'm not converting to carb anytime soon.
Carl
I also had the odometer problem. Had to put in a new one. I called HD corporate and the guy found me a few floating around in dealerships across the country. I got mine for half price from a place in Georgia. The guy who wanted it never picked it up and it had been set from the factory with 18k on it. It had also been laying around for 10 years. There is one at a dealership in MI with zero miles on it but the guy wants $500 for it and knows he may have the only one left like that. $250 buys a lot of calculators.
Anyway, the speedometer replacement job took me about a day but I did everything slow and by the book. Came out fine. The only thing was a leftover pink wire that had "pursuit" next to it on the wiring diagram. Probably a police option.
I'm not converting to carb anytime soon.
Carl
#19
Changing out the bleeding odometer LCD screen can be done without cutting and splicing wires. Or buying new old stock.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...l#post13279603
Hope that helps.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...l#post13279603
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Crashone; 06-01-2015 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Edit: I had posted the wrong link.