yep the china adjustable reamer tool < well piece of metal i should say with fins - that is the best finish one can get from that - you should see what that does with a guy who never used one before

 

Appreciated.

Yeah, and he did a bad job of that too ...

Strange, he gave me all the BS about using JIMS reamers.

The fact that he did not even drill out the oil feed - which should be done before reaming - and then sent it back like that makes me wonder what is going on in his mind.

I'll admit up to only have half a brain but I know that would equal engine destruction.

So there's no way on earth, no BS possible, that this is meant to be some sekret, go faster, miracle demon tweak, e.g. oil lines?

It's just pure and simple trashed and will screw with the oil pressure and wear the cam?

 

I hope you get your money back on that. Sell that one on eBay needing a new bushing and buy a used one matching the finish you want off eBay. You might not lose much doing it that way.

 

So there's no way on earth, no BS possible, that this is meant to be some sekret, go faster, miracle demon tweak, e.g. oil lines? ...

Unless you have the optional ( and highly rare ) oscillator which disrupts harmonic distribulation by recalcimining the apparatus which collects corrupt calculations conveyed by means of a capillary code through the ECM and converts them to negative crankcase pressures.

No it's NOT SUPPOSED TO BE LIKE THAT .

 

Is the machine shop local to you? I'd take it down there and show it to them. See what they say.

Either they think they have some secret recipe and meant to send it out that way (really, no chance of that), or else someone was having a really bad day. Either way, if it was my shop, I'd want to see that and have a chance to correct the problem.

 

Both the bushings in the cone are replaceable. The part numbers haven't changed since -73. If the rest of it is OK, just get new ones. Maybe buy a reamer and a micrometer and do it yourself so you know it's done right.

 

Isn't it going to cost just as much to get it reamed correctly as it is to buy a replacement? He's already into it for one bushing and ream job and the only thing that got reamed correctly was his wallet

 

Dunno what the costs are on a new cone or the bushings. Either way, the new parts need to be reamed to match his cam, if you want it done right.

I'm just of the philosophy of DIY whenever possible. I would rather buy a $75 tool than pay someone $50 to do it for me. That way, I avoid issues like he's having, and if something is screwed up, I know exactly who to blame, plus the next time I use the tool, the job is free. I adopted this philosophy after paying a "reputable" shop two large in 1982 dollars, which would be like six large today, to rebuild my Lotus TC motor. They screwed it up so bad that I was holding one of the pistons (which I still have) in my hand with a broken crown 15K miles later. I did the next rebuild myself for ~$700.

 

Does that come with or without the tin foil hat?
Yup, I am very aware of that and went to pay as an insurance to having it done properly.

Unfortunately, he's not local and I would insist on that. You cannot do it properly buy just sticking on a completely new one although I accept it would "get you by" normally. By the book, you really should machine it all up to suit the cases in question which is what I was doing.

That would have required buying both a cam shaft reamer AND a pinion shaft reamer which I'd probably only ever use once or twice.

The short answer is *he's* down more than $300 if I cost up a new cone (minor damage), bushings, and having it all re-done by someone else (all H-D parts), but I'll have to collect on it

I am with you on just buying tools and learning new skills normally. I do this stuff because I enjoy learning tech. The job's not rocket science, which is why I cannot understand how it went so badly except, as John states, he used a POS chinese adjustable reamer or something.

Not drilling the oil line is unforgivable though. That's like throwing a grenade in the case.

Unfortunately, the Pinion Shaft Bushing Line Reamer (JIMS 94805-57) is the expensive one. It's about $370, cam reamer $280, and I'm overseas right now and don't want to collect a garage full of tools.

25581-70 BUSHING, GEAR COVER $18.63
25582-93 BUSHING, GEAR COVER PINION SHAFT $18.62
25254-93B GEAR COVER $213.15

Shipping and work, another $100.

I remember reading John say, "use H-D only" on the bushes.

When it comes to what are essentially contract disputes, I won't mess around with Ebay.

Funnily enough, a bare alloy cone is more expensive than a chrome one.

 

What pees me off with these kind of guys is not so much the money, which you can always earn back; the time they eat out of your life fixing it, which you cannot.