You might have a chance with cam adjusters, still wouldn't want to try it, but the bolt type will fold up, they can't handle it if you put a fair amount on power on them with a loose nut. I've seen the results of an axle nut not tightened enough, adjusters trashed. They wouldn't handle the old 50hp 72 inchers, let alone the 100+ a lot of tweaked Harleys are running. The adjusters are for setting the tension, not holding it. Please take the word of experience and don't try not properly torquing the axle nut, it could get expensive.

You can do it the other way around, though. I've seen a bike ride home with the bent adjusters removed, just the axle nut holding it together. Chain was a bit loose....

 

I agree with you and Spanners. The adjusters would not maintain the required tension on the belt/chain if the nut wasn't torqued to 60-66ft/lbs.

But, you are looking at the result, the failure is in the bearings because they are no longer seated in the cones and allow severe wobble in the rear wheel, which destroys the pre-set tension. Then the rear wheel destroys everything it can, which is everything.

The question as I read it was, is there a split pin/cotter pin in the rear axle and is it necessary. The answer is maybe and depends if it was original or aftermarket axle. If it has one in it now then use it, if not then torque it. At any rate torque to specks.

an example: On a dodge front wheel the procedure is to torque down the wheel nut to 90ft/lbs, then back it off and hand tight to first alignment of nut and hole that applies a little torque to the bearing, and slip in the pin. This way the heat build up from friction allows a little expansion on the bearings.

That is the reason for my statement that the adjusters hold the tension and not the nut, the nut sets the bearing compression and maintains that which maintains the axle position.

Just another aside: The power from the engine is transferred to the ground perpendicular to the axle because of gyroscopic presession. The 'push' is applied to the swing arm by the same reaction of the wheel on the ground. Again 90deg's later in direction of rotation. The 'pull' on the belt/chain is predicated on the output of the transmission sprocket, weight of bike, traction of rear wheel, and last but not least wind resistance calculated at V square.

Go ahead call BS, it is OK.

 

Not sure who asked the question you are referring to but it wasn't me.


My question was since there is a cotter pin on the rear axel why not the front?


It was my thought that if the front axel nut came loose the cotter pin would keep it on the bike until you had a chance to tighten it back up.

 

Nothing...if the pinch bolts are tight.

edit; Who gives a **** how Dodge, or any other automotive wheel is done???? Ain't even the same concept...the H-D has a spacer between the bearing Cones for a Reason!!!!!