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School me on the difference of EV-13 vs EV-23 and some other questions

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Old 09-04-2015, 08:59 AM
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Default School me on the difference of EV-13 vs EV-23 and some other questions

I want to start working on getting parts and pieces together for some work I want to do. My '96 RK has close to 32K on it now and still running original cam bearing from what I can tell. Winter is coming.
What I can tell an EV-13 is near to stock and the 23 will help in the higher RPMs. I run highways along with city riding so I do want some lower torque for lower RPMs.
So far I am thinking new roller bearings, cam bearing and cam. I plan on using the stock push rods.
Would there be any benefit in honing the cylinders and replacing the rings?
How would having the heads shaved benefit all of this?
Thanks for the help.
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:20 AM
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While I don't know the difference between the 13 and the 23 but I do know several people running the 13 and they are very happy with it both at the bottom end and at highway speeds.

As for milling the heads I wouldn't for your build.
If you want to raise the compression (what milling the heads will do for you) you can just get the 30 thousandths head gaskets (stock is 45 thousandths).
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:21 AM
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Many many threads on cam choices and benefits of each. Have you used the search function? Quick reply from me is with all my research I have chosen to go with the EV13 when the time comes. I have also read it will help motor run a little cooler too. Mainly for some more lower end pulling power when touring 2up and loaded. That's what you get from the EV13, and as you stated the EV23 if more for midrange power. As to the reast fo your questions, others will have to chime in on those. Good luck!
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:24 AM
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The two most popular cams are EV13 and EV27. I have the EV13, and I can assure you it is not like stock. Here are part numbers and prices from a couple of years ago on my 95 Heritage Softail Classic. I absolutely love it. It pulls from idle on up, runs smoother than it ever has, and runs substantially cooler.

Here you go.

Andrews EV-13 cam $119.95
Dynojet Thunderslide with Jet Kit 8708 $128.42
Crane Cams Time Saver Adjustable Push Rods 4-0030 $126.72
Dynatek 2000P DD2000-HD2EP ignition module $145
Crane Cams big axle lifters 3-2050. set of four for $189.95
Crane Cams cam bearing 7-0400 $15.51
Cometic Cam Gasket Service Kit C9624F $19.04
Cometic EST Top End Gasket Kit w/.030" Head $87.39
Screaming Eagle Air Cleaner Kit (Carbureted Evo) 295433-99B $127.96
New set of stock rings

Milled Heads .025"
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:44 AM
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Default School me on the difference of EV-13 vs EV-23 and some other questions

Thanks for the info so far. I have read a lot of threads and was ready to put a 13 on one side of the coin and a 23 on the other and flip. The 27 is out as it seems that is for lighter bikes and not so much for low rpms.
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:35 PM
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I also installed the EV13. Very good improvement in power and TQ right where you need it for every day riding. Noticed a big difference on the very first ride.
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:51 PM
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Higher the number, the higher the powerband starts, so low number equals low-down grunt, higher number equals ride like you stole it....dial it in according to your riding style.


EV27 is a good compromise unless you is a fat bastard.
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
Higher the number, the higher the powerband starts, so low number equals low-down grunt, higher number equals ride like you stole it....dial it in according to your riding style.


EV27 is a good compromise unless you is a fat bastard.
You mean like this??
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
Higher the number, the higher the powerband starts, so low number equals low-down grunt, higher number equals ride like you stole it....dial it in according to your riding style. EV27 is a good compromise unless you is a fat bastard.
I might need to change my cam then. Prior to pancreatitis I was 255 pounds. I am now at 208.
 
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:10 PM
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You're going to be removing the barrels and heads so, at the very least, replace the base gasket with a .010" and the head gasket with a .030".

Read up about checking the deck height and squish.

You can chop .050" off the heads with either of those cams for a little more perk, and keep stock push rods. Chances are, your barrels could be trimmed .010" too.

Head skimming does not make that much difference compression wise, for that you'll need pistons, but stock they have sloppy squishes. I have taken apart and measured up one of these and I'll tell you the specs, e.g. compression & squish, were all way below what stock is meant to be.

I have an EV-23, so don't think I'm dissing it, but I was left feeling a little missold on the whole "torque cam versus horsepower cam" spiel. I would say a better division would simply be "more power versus less power" and there are other cams which offer more torque and more horsepower, and that the two Andrews' cams would be best sold as the safe end of the market ... no other thought required.

I apologize if this is heresy but, for me, they are what the bike should have been as stock, not a performance cam (see comparisons to Harley's L cam grind). They are perfectly adequate, a sensible choice and give good mileage but don't expect to be surprised by them.

Before you strip it down, run a tachometer on it and see which RPM you really ride in the most.

Also, consider your gearing. There's a Jerry Branch quote to support this, something like if he was only allowed to do one thing to a bike, it would be fix its gearing.
 

Last edited by Lucky Luke; 09-04-2015 at 05:14 PM.


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