Winter Project Came Early
#51
#52
Have you checked the rear exhaust pipe yet for a crack? I rode down to Myrtle Beach and back a few years ago in 90 + degree heat, parking her just inside the garage late at night.
Next morning, it was exactly as you described. A burnt exhaust valve went down and didn't come back up. The culprit was a cracked Y pipe that had developed the day before and I didn't hear it.
In my case a new exhaust (2 into 1,) and a set of take off heads that the local Dealer was trying to get rid of ($100,) got me back on the road. (Just a thought.)
Next morning, it was exactly as you described. A burnt exhaust valve went down and didn't come back up. The culprit was a cracked Y pipe that had developed the day before and I didn't hear it.
In my case a new exhaust (2 into 1,) and a set of take off heads that the local Dealer was trying to get rid of ($100,) got me back on the road. (Just a thought.)
#53
Interesting. I'll certainly check that very closely. Actually have a spare set of headers in the garage.
#54
While I'm waiting for the new ring set, I made a couple of other small improvements.
I'd been using an idle jet that I was sure was too large... when I did the carb a couple of years ago, I noted that the idle jet was a 50, which is obviously too large. Also turning the A/F screw in all the way wouldn't make the bike stumble. I ordered some jets, but the darn thing ran so well and got decent mileage, so I never bothered changing it. If it ain't broke and all.
So this is my chance. I threw in a 48 jet, which still may be a little stout. I have a 45 in reserve just in case. I picked up a Yost quick adjustment screw to be able to adjust the A/F screw without getting third degree burns. I also ordered new packing along with the screw. The aftermarket is the only source for new packing, because from the factory, this is all behind a permanent plug that you are not supposed to mess with. So if you take out the plug, take out the screw, and lose the spring, washer, and o-ring in there, the MoCo will NOT sell you replacements. You can buy a new carb.
My original factory o-ring under the factory adjustment screw was pretty well toasted, so I was glad I got new packing. In my opinion this is a worthwhile upgrade if you are rebuilding your CV carb. The rebuild kits do NOT include the o-ring behind the screw, and I can't help but think that a messed up factory o-ring could cause some issues. So if you've gone through your CV and still can't dial it in... may be worth a look.
The first pic is my shiny new adjustment screw ready to go to work. The second is a shot of the Yost instruction sheet and a pic of a "special tool" needed to do the job. Made me chuckle.
I'd been using an idle jet that I was sure was too large... when I did the carb a couple of years ago, I noted that the idle jet was a 50, which is obviously too large. Also turning the A/F screw in all the way wouldn't make the bike stumble. I ordered some jets, but the darn thing ran so well and got decent mileage, so I never bothered changing it. If it ain't broke and all.
So this is my chance. I threw in a 48 jet, which still may be a little stout. I have a 45 in reserve just in case. I picked up a Yost quick adjustment screw to be able to adjust the A/F screw without getting third degree burns. I also ordered new packing along with the screw. The aftermarket is the only source for new packing, because from the factory, this is all behind a permanent plug that you are not supposed to mess with. So if you take out the plug, take out the screw, and lose the spring, washer, and o-ring in there, the MoCo will NOT sell you replacements. You can buy a new carb.
My original factory o-ring under the factory adjustment screw was pretty well toasted, so I was glad I got new packing. In my opinion this is a worthwhile upgrade if you are rebuilding your CV carb. The rebuild kits do NOT include the o-ring behind the screw, and I can't help but think that a messed up factory o-ring could cause some issues. So if you've gone through your CV and still can't dial it in... may be worth a look.
The first pic is my shiny new adjustment screw ready to go to work. The second is a shot of the Yost instruction sheet and a pic of a "special tool" needed to do the job. Made me chuckle.
#55
Join Date: Jan 2011
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While I'm waiting for the new ring set, I made a couple of other small improvements.
I'd been using an idle jet that I was sure was too large... when I did the carb a couple of years ago, I noted that the idle jet was a 50, which is obviously too large. Also turning the A/F screw in all the way wouldn't make the bike stumble. I ordered some jets, but the darn thing ran so well and got decent mileage, so I never bothered changing it. If it ain't broke and all.
So this is my chance. I threw in a 48 jet, which still may be a little stout. I have a 45 in reserve just in case. I picked up a Yost quick adjustment screw to be able to adjust the A/F screw without getting third degree burns. I also ordered new packing along with the screw. The aftermarket is the only source for new packing, because from the factory, this is all behind a permanent plug that you are not supposed to mess with. So if you take out the plug, take out the screw, and lose the spring, washer, and o-ring in there, the MoCo will NOT sell you replacements. You can buy a new carb.
My original factory o-ring under the factory adjustment screw was pretty well toasted, so I was glad I got new packing. In my opinion this is a worthwhile upgrade if you are rebuilding your CV carb. The rebuild kits do NOT include the o-ring behind the screw, and I can't help but think that a messed up factory o-ring could cause some issues. So if you've gone through your CV and still can't dial it in... may be worth a look.
The first pic is my shiny new adjustment screw ready to go to work. The second is a shot of the Yost instruction sheet and a pic of a "special tool" needed to do the job. Made me chuckle.
I'd been using an idle jet that I was sure was too large... when I did the carb a couple of years ago, I noted that the idle jet was a 50, which is obviously too large. Also turning the A/F screw in all the way wouldn't make the bike stumble. I ordered some jets, but the darn thing ran so well and got decent mileage, so I never bothered changing it. If it ain't broke and all.
So this is my chance. I threw in a 48 jet, which still may be a little stout. I have a 45 in reserve just in case. I picked up a Yost quick adjustment screw to be able to adjust the A/F screw without getting third degree burns. I also ordered new packing along with the screw. The aftermarket is the only source for new packing, because from the factory, this is all behind a permanent plug that you are not supposed to mess with. So if you take out the plug, take out the screw, and lose the spring, washer, and o-ring in there, the MoCo will NOT sell you replacements. You can buy a new carb.
My original factory o-ring under the factory adjustment screw was pretty well toasted, so I was glad I got new packing. In my opinion this is a worthwhile upgrade if you are rebuilding your CV carb. The rebuild kits do NOT include the o-ring behind the screw, and I can't help but think that a messed up factory o-ring could cause some issues. So if you've gone through your CV and still can't dial it in... may be worth a look.
The first pic is my shiny new adjustment screw ready to go to work. The second is a shot of the Yost instruction sheet and a pic of a "special tool" needed to do the job. Made me chuckle.
Are you sure you can afford it?????????
#56
#58
Join Date: Jan 2011
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#59
Saw the same set of circumstances a few times over my years. (24 at GM dealer) A couple of bikes too.
A cracked Y pipe on the present EG was the excuse for my D&D fat cats.
WP
#60