That's interesting because when I unplug my voes , the rpm decrease. I think it is suppose to because the timing is advanced at idle with the voes connected. Faster spark advance should equal higher rpm.

 

Texashillcountry,

Are you saying that I should go back to the 70 on the main and go small(er) on the intermediate? My plugs were black as coal and fouling with factory setting from S&S.

 

I can't answer that until I know when your carb was made.
If I remember right (you're gonna have to ask Doc Hess on this one) the pre '04 S&S carbs used something like a 26 idle and 64 main.
My post '04 uses the 295 and 72 combination.
FWIW a dyno run says I should be using the 74 but I just don't want to.

 

I don't recall what I have in there right now. I'd have to look at my spreadsheet at home. A good google search here might turn it up. But, yeah, it seems to be different before they added that extra adjuster hole with a jet in it.

I bought 2 S&S carbs, one for the FLHT and one for the XLH. Both were purchased specific to the exact model bike they went on. Both were jetted pig rich as they came out of the box.

 

When you disconnect the VOES the rpm drops as it retards the timing. When connected it increases the timing and RPM's. I have a switch on mine to iritate the FI guys where when I switch it off my idle drops to a great slow potato potato as the timing is retarded.

 

A .295 on the intermediate with a 66 main would be just about right for a stocker. There was another fella here that was experiencing the same with a .310/70 he went to a .295 /66 and it ran great.

 

You do realize that the intermediate jet is in use for 3/4 of the throttle twist and the last 1/4 is the main right?


Your buddy's motor is starving on the top end with that 66.


If you want to use decimals then the jet sizes are 0.0295 and 0.072 etc.


When I had a stock motor I played around with the jets (tried all sorts of combinations) and came to find out that 295/74 were the optimum jets to run a stock motor with a 27 cam.

 

the intermdiate jet is for the idle circuit and up to approximately 2500 rpm depending on the size of the air bleed being used. Check out S&S on youtube on how to tune a E carb. I've been using one for decades.....Plus we're talkin pure stock not an ev27.........

 

The intermediate jet is 3000 and below

Low rpm operation is controlled by the intermediate jet (#11). If sneezing or popping is experienced below approximately 3000 rpm’s the intermediate jet must be replaced with a larger sized (richer) jet. If the engine does not run smoothly at low speeds, fouls plugs, blows black smoke or gets bad gas mileage a smaller (leaner) intermediate jet needs to be installed. Always readjust the idle mixture (#2) and idle speed (#1) screws after making a jet change.


The main jet has nothing to do with fouling plugs.


To test the main jet, do a roll-on from 50-mph to 70-mph in 3rd gear. If the engine backfires or breaks up in the carb, increase the main jet size .004". If the engine is flat or will not accelerate, decrease the main jet by .004".


Source
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/carb-quick-guide/

 

FWIW I did the carb conversion first then a year or two later I did the cam.
The motor was pure stock at the time of my experiments.
I did try a 68 and it starved the bike at WOT.
I didn't have to change a thing in the carb after I put in the 27.


I don't know if this matters but I live at about 600 feet above sea level.