What is the difference in the wiring between FLHR vs FLHT?
#1
#2
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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#3
Who ever removed the batwing faring with it gauges and replaced it with the single digital speedo did a hack job on the wiring. One day not to long ago,I decided to see why the accessory port wasn't working. So I pulled all the wiring behind the headlight and found that wires was cut off and not taped over. Today I decided to go to Walmart and it wouldn't start. I jiggled the wires in front and it fired up. So something behind the head light is shorting out.
#4
Get a factory service manual for your year bike, it will have the various wiring diagrams in the back.
Helpful tip: Take the FSM to FedEx Office or any place that has a copier capable of enlarging the diagrams. Make several copies of the ones you want to compare. That way you can use colored markers to trace circuits.
That's what I did to install a factory cruise control unit on my 93 FLHS (which was never available as an option) using a kit designed for the 93/94 FLHTC.
#5
So you've got what was an FLT and somebody made it into a FLHR? That's what I did because the DOT pickup truck totaled me, I bought it back and bought economically feasible Road King stuff.
I figured out which wires were needed to run a Road King and crimped over and capped with shrink tubing those that weren't needed anymore. (There are more crimped wires in that nacelle than working wires today.)
To answer your question, it's the front wiring harness that clips to the main harness
that differs when they decide which bike they're building. There's one for dressers and one another for Road Kings. I used what I had because as a totaled motorcycle and I realize that it's only worth so much even when running down the road now.
Since you know that the short is in the headlight, you could tear it all out and install a RK harness, or you could pull it out from the nacelle and properly cap all those loose ends, many of which are hot (more than just the orange ones btw.) Mine, cobbled together as it is, has been rock solid reliable since I put her back together.
I figured out which wires were needed to run a Road King and crimped over and capped with shrink tubing those that weren't needed anymore. (There are more crimped wires in that nacelle than working wires today.)
To answer your question, it's the front wiring harness that clips to the main harness
that differs when they decide which bike they're building. There's one for dressers and one another for Road Kings. I used what I had because as a totaled motorcycle and I realize that it's only worth so much even when running down the road now.
Since you know that the short is in the headlight, you could tear it all out and install a RK harness, or you could pull it out from the nacelle and properly cap all those loose ends, many of which are hot (more than just the orange ones btw.) Mine, cobbled together as it is, has been rock solid reliable since I put her back together.
#6
So you've got what was an FLT and somebody made it into a FLHR? That's what I did because the DOT pickup truck totaled me, I bought it back and bought economically feasible Road King stuff.
I figured out which wires were needed to run a Road King and crimped over and capped with shrink tubing those that weren't needed anymore. (There are more crimped wires in that nacelle than working wires today.)
To answer your question, it's the front wiring harness that clips to the main harness
that differs when they decide which bike they're building. There's one for dressers and one another for Road Kings. I used what I had because as a totaled motorcycle and I realize that it's only worth so much even when running down the road now.
Since you know that the short is in the headlight, you could tear it all out and install a RK harness, or you could pull it out from the nacelle and properly cap all those loose ends, many of which are hot (more than just the orange ones btw.) Mine, cobbled together as it is, has been rock solid reliable since I put her back together.
I figured out which wires were needed to run a Road King and crimped over and capped with shrink tubing those that weren't needed anymore. (There are more crimped wires in that nacelle than working wires today.)
To answer your question, it's the front wiring harness that clips to the main harness
that differs when they decide which bike they're building. There's one for dressers and one another for Road Kings. I used what I had because as a totaled motorcycle and I realize that it's only worth so much even when running down the road now.
Since you know that the short is in the headlight, you could tear it all out and install a RK harness, or you could pull it out from the nacelle and properly cap all those loose ends, many of which are hot (more than just the orange ones btw.) Mine, cobbled together as it is, has been rock solid reliable since I put her back together.
#7
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#8
#9
A custom shop did the same thing to my EG. Lots of the original wiring was unused so they capped the ends of the wires with some caps that crimp to the wire. Any parts house has them. Ive never had any electrical issues. Did they install a Dakota Digital speedo on yours? Thats what I have and I love it. I want the matching tach next.
#10
A custom shop did the same thing to my EG. Lots of the original wiring was unused so they capped the ends of the wires with some caps that crimp to the wire. Any parts house has them. Ive never had any electrical issues. Did they install a Dakota Digital speedo on yours? Thats what I have and I love it. I want the matching tach next.
I did the Dakota Digital too. Its a 1 7/8" diameter mini gauge sitting where the fork lock / ignition used to be.