Figured their were manuals out there that said do not use impact. Could even be applicable to different bikes. I been collecting manual for a long time. Have many from as far back as 1929 thru 2014.
My locking tool is a piece of scrap delrin I sawed out of 2" delrin sheet I had. Sold some on here and ebay before my sheet ran out. I have used them many times and had no problem.
My 09 Dyna says no heat since the case has fumes in it and breaker bar. No mention of impact. The 2014 Tour has no warnings and just a mention of breaker bar.

 

UPDATE: Parts came in this week. Finally have had a chance to get to it today. I managed to get to the old stator without removing the clutch basket. Sure enough, it was toast.



So now, I've started turning my attention to replacing the IPB. I'm realizing that I don't have either an "inner race puller tool" or a press, which the manual says I need. Kind of torn as to whether I want to pull the clutch off and get in to that or just return the Baker kit and leave it as is. Am I just being lazy, or should I go for it?

 

I tapped the bearing in and out with socket once. Other time I used socket threaded rod, washers and piece of strut. Lubed the outer race.

 

Pull clutch hub off. Think there was an order. Then you can inspect bearing by looking at the rollers and race. If all is smooth, it's OK
You need to ditch that 100 amp stero, electric jacket and grips. There rough on stators..

 

It looks smooth as best I can tell. On the other hand, apparently the dealer I bought the Baker kit from only accepts returns for credit. Changing the bearing looks like a bigger deal than I'd thought. I feel totally capable on the stator...just nervous whether changing the bearing is beyond my abilities. I don't wanna screw anything up.

Ha. No stereo and heated grips, but I do run gloves and insoles in the winter. BUT...it dawned on me a few days ago what might've done it.

Earlier in the year I swapped my headlight bulb out for a 100w/80w bulb after reading an article where a guy did that for more visibility. I swapped out the plug for a ceramic, but it didn't occur to me it could overwork the charging system?

 

It's easy to change but you do have to pull your clutch hub and inner primary to get to it.

Up to you but I wouldn't do it unless it needed it or I was going in that far for something else.

 

I'm only going off what I've read online and in the manual. But I don't see anything irregular, and everything seems to move pretty freely.


I know the Baker kit is an upgrade. But since this level of wrenching is stuff I'm still learning, I'm inclined to just deal with one issue at a time and make sure I'm doing it right.

 

Mark your bearings and keep rolling. Inspect 360 on each one. Very fine lines here and there on them and inner race is OK. Lift up and down on the input shaft. Should see no play. If so I would not worry about it.
Last time I was here, I dropped the rear wheel,pulled the drive belt fwd off the front drive and turned the input shaft shifting up thru each gear filling the main drive gear bearings and misc other bearing in the transmission. All it is a fill but mine felt smooth with not catches or anything.
Just threw another pair of pads on the rear while it was apart and shined up the rear raw aluminum ...
My friend has a big Honda Goldwing. He put some huge lights on it. His alternator lasted 3 months. There is little reserve on theses system. Especially older ones like mine.

 

That extra 20 watts should only require an additional 1.7 amps (DC), so I doubt that's the cause.

 

I doubt it too. My flhr all the lights are about doubled, with only the 35 or 38 amp.


The bike is an Evo. How old? Chalk it up to old age IMO.