Depends on how persnickety you are.

The "according to Hoyle" answer is to use a torque wrench on all those.

If it was my bike, I'd use a T-handle allen wrench and just snug them up by hand. Nice and tight. When you see the wrench start to twist, you're there. Don't forget the blue locktite.

 

None of what you are asking about is difficult if you have some basic tools and some wrenching ability.

I would suggest a parts manual as well as a service manual for your bike. The parts finder link is okay but the problem is that it only list the part number, and with hardware (bolts, nuts and the like) you have to go to the back of the parts manual to get a description of the hardware.

EX: it lists the clutch cover screws as #4717 (5 for Softail) and #4825A (2 for Softail). In the back of the parts manual it shows these to be 1/4-20 x 2-1/4 knurled socket head and 1/4-20 x 1-3/4 socket panhead screws.

I would suggest that if you are going to replace the various hardware parts that you go with stainless just to avoid cheaply chromed ones (they will charge a great deal for them though) that are going to flake and rust out on you.

And when you change out the hardware do it one bolt at a time. Things like the nose cone, clutch release cover and primary cahincase cover all contain oil. last thing you need is having all your fluids dump on you.

 

BTW, gotta give props to the PO on this one. He may have had bad taste, but dude sure knew how to go all in.

 

I think the gold bolts are cool. Kind of Steampunk.

If you want to get rid of the gold bolts, just buy a Hot Topper or similar kit. Cheap, clean look and no more gold. And no wrenches needed.

https://www.amazon.com/XFMT-Motorcyc...y+bolt+toppers

 

Outer primary cover should be torqued to spec and in sequence to guard against leaks. Sequence is on the service manual. I believe those are 1/4 20 screws.
You could just get some silver paint for the time being.
Stock looking gas caps can be had for less than $20 each at most aftermarket parts shops, DK, JP, etc.
I took the LTR badge off my sissybar with a stiff putty knife, put an orange and black bar & shield over the scar.

 

I had those gas caps and the live to ride stuff is stick on. Carefully peel those off. Caliper stuff also. Out in the sun should soften them enough. The bolt on stuff is simple swapping parts. Mine still has cam cover and clutch primary cover.

 

I would remove all the live to ride stuff, and just put hot toppers on the bolts that you are not removing anyway...simple weekend project.

Every time you have to do work on the bike...like removing the primary...replace the bolts on that section.

 

PO is a good friend of mine. And all in is how he does everything. No half measures for him.


I do not consider taste as good a bad. It is just similar to my taste or different from my taste. People who are perceived as having good taste just have taste that is similar to most people. People who have bad taste have unusual taste.

 

Granted you can get everything from Drag but I recommend getting at least the mirrors from harley.
OEM mirrors just seem to vibrate less IMO.

 

Lots of the stock stuff can be found on eBay. As for the screws, I buy stainless fasteners from the hardware store or online for a lot of "non critical" areas (cover screws, trim screws, not motor mount or fork bolts). Stainless is nice because it won't corrode, and you can either polish it to look like chrome or leave it natural.

Derby cover and inspection cover screws are 1/4-20 button head cap screws.