Yea the race walked in, yes you will need the puller but before that you will have to get the race away from the seal and main drive gear.
Here is how you do it:
1:Remove the side cover on the right side(Clutch actuator cover)
2.You will see two nyloc nuts on the mainshaft and the counter shaft.Remove the nyloc nut from the mainshaft.
3. Use a plastic dead blow or brass hammer to tap the mainshaft towards the left side or primary side of the transmission so you have a gap between the race and the maindrive gear.
4. Use the puller to remove the race from the mainshaft.
5.Install a new nyloc nut on the mainshaft and torque to 50 foot pounds to draw the mainshaft back into place.
may have time tomorrow night to tap the mainshaft to the primary side, it wont take much, the horseshoe on the puller almost fits in the slot.
do i need to have the tranny in gear, or neutral? will read the book some more, but i think the gear set has to come out to get to the 5th gear drive.
going deeper than intended, but enjoying the chit out of it so far.
You can see the crack before the nut was removed in the edge. When the part was made,there are some undercuts with share edges that started the crack when the nut was tightened. Not too hard to remove the other side of the gear box and and pull the cluster. The all-thread rod,nuts and washers will pull the main drive gear.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 08-24-2016 at 09:33 AM.
do i need to have the tranny in gear, or neutral? will read the book some more, but i think the gear set has to come out to get to the 5th gear drive.
.
The best was is to pull the top cover and remove the shift drum and lock 2 sets of gears in at the same time that way the shaft won't turn when removing the nyloc nut.
The gear set does have to come out to replace the main drive gear.
When you have the right tools it makes life a lot easier to work on these simple machines....
10-4, exspensive but worth it to me in the long run. i dont ever plan on getting rid of her, so would like to do all the wrenching i can on her as she needs. (and what i can compentently handle) lol
Picking up the main drive gear and case bearing today, should have everything else already to put back in with it.
Am wondering about the gears when I put them back in. The gear set is still intact, the way they came out. But I did lock them together to get the main shaft nyloc nut off (trap door side) and the shifter cam is still the way it was, did not mess with the cam follower or position of the cam support.
Will my gearing be correct? I don't want to guess and find out its wrong after she's buttoned up. The gear engagement section in the hsm says to be fully engaged in 3rd. I think I was in first when they came out. I'll keep looking at the book, need to understand first through fifth. Any tips on this?
10-4, exspensive but worth it to me in the long run. i dont ever plan on getting rid of her, so would like to do all the wrenching i can on her as she needs. (and what i can compentently handle) lol
I'm the same bud. 07 with 92000 miles. I have learned to do a lot myself and find other ways than the dealers to keep the baby going ....
Picking up the main drive gear and case bearing today, should have everything else already to put back in with it.
Am wondering about the gears when I put them back in. The gear set is still intact, the way they came out. But I did lock them together to get the main shaft nyloc nut off (trap door side) and the shifter cam is still the way it was, did not mess with the cam follower or position of the cam support.
Will my gearing be correct? I don't want to guess and find out its wrong after she's buttoned up. The gear engagement section in the hsm says to be fully engaged in 3rd. I think I was in first when they came out. I'll keep looking at the book, need to understand first through fifth. Any tips on this?
Don't worry about it being in third gear, actually it's easiest to line it up in neutral. Look at the spring loaded roller detent arm on the shift drum and the grooves that it rides in. You will notice that all of the grooves in the end of the shift drum are the same. When I say grooves the peaks and valleys that the roller wheel ride in. They are all the same but 1, it's as if somebody cut away the peak and left a divot. That divot is the neutral position.
After you install the gearset just make sure all the slider gears( That the forks go on) are all in between gears (in the neutral position) and not engaged on either side with other gears. Now with your shift drum in the neutral position you can't screw it up. Actually you can't screw it up in any gear, if the gears are in a different position then the shift drum the drum will not bolt down.
08-23-2016, 11:43 PM
