Need Some Clutch Help
#1
Need Some Clutch Help
Big Red has a sick clutch.
This came on suddenly. The main symptom is that downshifts are hard, to the point of being almost impossible. Really have to stomp on the lever. Seems to get worse after it is fully warmed up.
I did the usual stuff: Carefully adjusted clutch pack and clutch cable. Multiple times, actually, since the problem wasn't getting better. I've tried making the clutch pack way too tight (ie, less backing out of the adjustment screw) and way too loose. Same thing with the cable (tight and loose). No improvement.
I didn't measure the primary chain, but a quick "by feel" inspection of that shows it's at least close.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in the primary. The level is right at the bottom of the clutch hub.
Like i said, this came on suddenly a few days ago. I didn't notice anything clunk or snap or thunk. It just started getting impossibly hard to downshift.
The other symptom I noticed is that downshifts from neutral (standing start) don't thunk into first like it normally does. You almost can't even feel it, and only when you let the clutch out a bit does it drop into gear.
Bike is a more or less stock '90 FLHTC. 23,500 total miles. I replaced a broken primary chain (threw a roller) about 2,500 miles ago. Also put a new +6 Barnett clutch cable on as part of my bar swap something like 4,000 miles ago.
Unless someone has a better idea, I'm thinking the next step is to pull the side cover off the trans and see if somehow the ball and ramp mechanism got wazzed.
Honestly, doubt that's the problem, but it seems like the easiest thing to do next. Assuming that checks out, I don't know what else to do other than pull the clutch pack and pull it apart looking for damage.
Any advice, suggestions, ideas would be much appreciated. TIA!
This came on suddenly. The main symptom is that downshifts are hard, to the point of being almost impossible. Really have to stomp on the lever. Seems to get worse after it is fully warmed up.
I did the usual stuff: Carefully adjusted clutch pack and clutch cable. Multiple times, actually, since the problem wasn't getting better. I've tried making the clutch pack way too tight (ie, less backing out of the adjustment screw) and way too loose. Same thing with the cable (tight and loose). No improvement.
I didn't measure the primary chain, but a quick "by feel" inspection of that shows it's at least close.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in the primary. The level is right at the bottom of the clutch hub.
Like i said, this came on suddenly a few days ago. I didn't notice anything clunk or snap or thunk. It just started getting impossibly hard to downshift.
The other symptom I noticed is that downshifts from neutral (standing start) don't thunk into first like it normally does. You almost can't even feel it, and only when you let the clutch out a bit does it drop into gear.
Bike is a more or less stock '90 FLHTC. 23,500 total miles. I replaced a broken primary chain (threw a roller) about 2,500 miles ago. Also put a new +6 Barnett clutch cable on as part of my bar swap something like 4,000 miles ago.
Unless someone has a better idea, I'm thinking the next step is to pull the side cover off the trans and see if somehow the ball and ramp mechanism got wazzed.
Honestly, doubt that's the problem, but it seems like the easiest thing to do next. Assuming that checks out, I don't know what else to do other than pull the clutch pack and pull it apart looking for damage.
Any advice, suggestions, ideas would be much appreciated. TIA!
#2
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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Sounds to me like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Does it try to creep forward while in gear while the clutch is disengaged? Check each end of the clutch cable if something is messed up. Are the three ball bearings in the correct places (I remember something about that with mine, and finding peanut butter in there)
Last edited by Prot; 08-13-2016 at 08:29 AM.
#3
#4
#5
That will make it erratic. Ever things adjusts fine but soon as it's running, it goes to crap. Clutch was not correct and it was spinning all the time. That is what the slack in the cable is for. Of course if the main adjustment is correct FIRST...
Only spins when clutch is pulled in. Be sure to check both ends of your push rod and the faces they run it. That is toast. Never seen one that bad.
Only spins when clutch is pulled in. Be sure to check both ends of your push rod and the faces they run it. That is toast. Never seen one that bad.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 10:19 AM.
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0maha (08-15-2016)
#6
Unfortunately that poor thing is only fit for the scrap bin! A new one could and should work miracles. It would be worth stripping the clutch operating mechanism and cleaning everything, to minimise the risk of particles messing up the replacement.
#7
Well, some progress anyway.
Went down to the HD dealer. Got a new bearing and two new bearing races, and even a new clip for good measure.
Learned something when I was there: the "umbrella" on the end of that rod was added in 1991. (Or at least that's what the counter man said.) My '90 does not have one.
I also learned that the race on the clutch side of that rod is supposed to come off. On mine, the bearing failure actually caused it to weld itself to the rod.
Bad news is the dealer didn't have the rod in stock. Got one on order.
Decided to try installing the new bearing anyway. A quick run around the block and I can confirm that the problem persists. Going to have to wait for the new parts. I'm going to go ahead and replace the inner shaft as well. The pushrod end shaft looks really cooked on both ends.
Oh well. At least nothing else can go wrong!!
Went down to the HD dealer. Got a new bearing and two new bearing races, and even a new clip for good measure.
Learned something when I was there: the "umbrella" on the end of that rod was added in 1991. (Or at least that's what the counter man said.) My '90 does not have one.
I also learned that the race on the clutch side of that rod is supposed to come off. On mine, the bearing failure actually caused it to weld itself to the rod.
Bad news is the dealer didn't have the rod in stock. Got one on order.
Decided to try installing the new bearing anyway. A quick run around the block and I can confirm that the problem persists. Going to have to wait for the new parts. I'm going to go ahead and replace the inner shaft as well. The pushrod end shaft looks really cooked on both ends.
Oh well. At least nothing else can go wrong!!
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#8
Clutch Basket ...
You may want to have a look at the basket itself too...if it's starting to notch up badly , this will cause things to not work right also ....
the pushrod shaft is heated treated on both ends and will be discolored there too ...
the pushrod shaft is heated treated on both ends and will be discolored there too ...
Last edited by springers4ever; 08-13-2016 at 11:55 AM.
#9
Yeah, I'm sitting here thinking I should pull the clutch out and give it a good look while I'm in the middle of all this. Going to be a few days before the parts are in anyway. Since I don't have the clutch compression tool, maybe I'll take it over to the Indy next door and have him take a look.
#10
This is what I'm working with. That's after the new outer race and bearing.
According to the diagrams I'm looking at, the inner race isn't supposed to be welded to the rod. Is that correct?
Does the discolouration on the ends look like factory heat treat, or is that from operating friction?