Evolution re build HELP!!!
#21
08-16-2016, 02:35 PM
Road Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Grew up in Texas, moved to AZ
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If you can spin the crank with the pistons removed, that eliminates the cam, oil pump, etc. Good.
Next step is to install the cylinders and pistons, rotate the engine to TDC for each cylinder, and then measure the gap between the top of the cylinder(s) and the piston(s). What you are describing would be consistent with having a mismatch between the crank and pistons and having them extend beyond the tops of the cylinders.
Next step is to install the cylinders and pistons, rotate the engine to TDC for each cylinder, and then measure the gap between the top of the cylinder(s) and the piston(s). What you are describing would be consistent with having a mismatch between the crank and pistons and having them extend beyond the tops of the cylinders.
Need to figure out if you ordered the correct piston.
#23
08-16-2016, 03:54 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#24
08-16-2016, 04:54 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#26
08-16-2016, 11:27 PM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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How about some pictures of the Pistons, heads, combustion chambers?
Also, does it bind with the heads on without the push rods?
You need to determine what is making contact with what.
Do your Pistons have arrows on them? If so, which way do you have them pointing?
I am really curious on how this turns out.
Also, does it bind with the heads on without the push rods?
You need to determine what is making contact with what.
Do your Pistons have arrows on them? If so, which way do you have them pointing?
I am really curious on how this turns out.
Last edited by Prot; 08-16-2016 at 11:30 PM.
#27
08-17-2016, 08:12 AM
Yes I have pulled the cylinders back off and the crank then spins freely. Yep this time I didn't torque down the heads so tomorrow I'll pull them off and see how it spins while holding the jugs by hand and let you all know what the problem is..well hopefully know lol. Thanks again all for the help it's greatly appreciated. And I'm gonna talk to the machinest about the ring gap. I hate knocking a shop since I'm in the auto trade myself but this place has had mixed reviews but it's close by so...
I've done strokers using different pistons and had to relieve the opposing side on each skirt so they would go by each other at the bottom of the cylinder as they do come out to a point.
Griz
#28
08-17-2016, 08:27 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
It could also be the piston skirts hitting each other at the bottom of the stroke if the skirts are wrong.
I've done strokers using different pistons and had to relieve the opposing side on each skirt so they would go by each other at the bottom of the cylinder as they do come out to a point.
Griz
I've done strokers using different pistons and had to relieve the opposing side on each skirt so they would go by each other at the bottom of the cylinder as they do come out to a point.
Griz
Very good Point and Possibility...Well done.
#29
08-17-2016, 11:55 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
#30
08-17-2016, 02:28 PM
Thanks to all who offered help in figuring out my problem and putting me on the right track. As it turns out according to the SS tech people who were very helpful, the Weisco forged piston kit the shop ordered me K1668 isn't compatible. I have to use the S&S 92-2029 pistons with the super stock heads due to the D shelf interference if not used as many here had stated. Thanks again everyone your help has been greatly appreciated. p.s. sorry for the block writing, English (paragrahing?) was never a favorite subject of mine. This site ROCKS!!! Thank You!!!