Yeah, it's an Enforcer not the Aggressor but I'm willing to bet it would work either way.

I’m not claiming this will work on every touring bike with ¾” axles, I’m saying this is what we did to make it work on my bike.

Over the winter my ’94 bagger was parked in a drive in chock and the tire lost air pressure. I didn’t have straps on it so it leaned to the side and damaged the rotor. I was thinking about a different wheel to update the look from the original aftermarket wheels from the build in ’03 until I saw the prices. The bike is black and chrome so I thought the stock HD Enforcer wheel good look based on other member bikes I’ve seen on the forum.

I have a 16” front wheel similar to an Extreme Wheel Arson model with Avon Venom X tire. It has a close wrap fender with Hawg Halter brakes and 11.5” rotors. It all sits on chrome lower legs and a ¾” axle. I bought a 2015 Enforcer 19” take off stock wheel, tire and rotors. The new wheel comes from the factory with a 25mm axle. I removed the calipers and slipped the new wheel in for a trial fit. The rotors measured from side to side are identical on the wheels and the height of the tire is only about 1/8” taller so only minor modification of the fender mounting holes was needed.

I found Aircraft Spruce online selling 4130N 1” OD Chromoly tubing and ordered a couple 1’ pieces with a .120 wall for the center axle spacer for a little over $20. When they arrived I had to touch up the inside cut edge with a file and the axle slipped right into the center axle spacer perfectly. I bought extra tubing in the event we needed to cut multiple center spacers. Next I removed the rotors and took them to a local machine shop where he turned them down from 11.8” to 11.5” diameter. I remounted the wheel , installed the calipers and the rotors, The rotors cleared the calipers with no problem.

Next step was to get three measurements related to the spacers. Lay the old wheel flat on the floor with the right side up with the right side axle spacer in place and the speedometer drive in place on the left side. At this point the wheel is balancing on the speedo drive and I laid a level across the right axle spacer. The first distance is the overall measurement from the bottom of the level through the wheel to the floor. The second measurement is from the bottom of the level to the outside surface of the right rotor. Flip the wheel over, lay it flat on the floor and put the level on the speedo drive (or spacer if you don’t have a mechanical drive). Do the same for the speedo drive side.

The bearings are from HD and are part # 9267. We measured the overall length of the old wheel with the spacer and speedo drive to determine the distance between the fork legs. Next they took very specific measurements for each side. Start with the left side to make the speedo drive fit, we drilled into the Enforcer hub to insert the speedometer drive tab that usually fits into a slot in the old style wheel rotor. The inside length of the drive will be too long with the new bearing in place and will need to be milled down to fit. You can play around with the bearing spacing within the hub to adjust the fit. Set the right side and use the correct size spacer to make the dimensions work.

Continued ....

 

The combination of the right axle spacer, bearings , center spacer and speedo drive must equal the overall measurement taken from the old wheel . Within the overall measurement, the new center hub spacer length must be calculated because the bearings are different thickness and sit in a different position from the old wheel and the old spacers will not fit. Once the drive is positioned we can set the left side bearing to a depth to better accommodate the drive width. From there we worked to the left side. this will be the step where you determine how much to shave off the drive. This involved pulling and installing the bearings a couple times. Next go to the right side and locate the bearing position and calculate the new right side spacer length. There is no center axle spacer installed yet. The bearings, drive and spacer should be equal to the overall measurement from the old wheel. Once satisfied with the overall length measure the distance between the bearings for the center spacer. If you’re unsure, make it a little longer, you can always shorten it . If you’re happy with the package install the wheel without the calipers in place. Check the rotor alignment you may need to make some slight adjustments. This will be a measure, fit and adjust process over and over until they are right. Make sure the wheel is centered. Push your pads into the caliper to allow easy installation then slip the calipers on the forks, adjust them according to the FSM. I had to clearance the rotor bolt heads and the caliper body. I removed material slowly until each head was able to pass the caliper on each side, made final adjustments and assembly then took it for a ride. I've got over 5000 miles on it with no issues.

 

From Boardtracker
What in hell is harley doing buying parts from Slovakia (wherever the hell that is)??????????????

 

The global economy at work.

Check arrived today - thanks. Hope the axle adjusters work for him.

 

Parts to my (and I guess your) bike were made in USA, Japan and Italy.
But Slovakia???? Really????
Isn't that kinda like buying blood from Transilvania???????

Damn good job on that wheel though!!!!!!!!!!!


Glad you got it.
Thanks again for the parts.

 

That looks great.

 

Nice work now figure out how to get the rear wheel on the bike and report. Experts say it can't be done and they may be right

 

Nice work!
Now, you gotta get your rotors polished...

 

I picked up a '07 Street Glide rear wheel with the narrow hub. The outer edge of the wheel is really the only part visible with the bags covering the rest of the wheel so I think it will look somewhat matching. That's my winter project for this year.

 

Great look'in wheel

Machining down something will back a lot folks up.

Nice to have access to such tools or machinery

Nice job

WP