Adjustable pushrods?
#21
#22
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I purchased a set of S&S quickies.
When I removed the old pushrods with bolt cutters I pulled the front lifter block and lifters. I saw that the rear exhaust lobe on the cam was scratched up.
I guess it is replacement time.
The cam is not a Crane as the original owner told me.
It is an Ultima MW520. 114-68 on the chart below.
The Midwest and Ultima sites do not have any dealer lists.
Where can I purchase Ultima products?
Since I need to replace the cam, can someone recommend a replacement cam.
My current sweet spot is at about 2800 RPM. If I keep it around there it will pull like a train but it's a little weak in torque in the lower rpm ranges.
89" stroker.
Super G carb.
Edelbrock manifold with heads ported to match the rectangular ports on the manifold.
I have a six speed transmission.
I can't remove the rear lifter block because one of 12 point bolts is rounded.
I used a 12 point Snap-on socket to remove all of the other bolts but it just wouldn't remove the last one.
It is on the front of the rear block, closest to the cylinder.
The cylinder heads are still on.
Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out.
Cam specs MW520 114-68
Intake open/close 28/54
Exhaust open/close 69/23
Duration int/exh 262/272
Lobe Center int/exh 103/113
Valve lift int/exh .520/.520
Overlap 51 degrees
TDC Lift int/exh .209/.194
Lobe Sep Angle 108
When I removed the old pushrods with bolt cutters I pulled the front lifter block and lifters. I saw that the rear exhaust lobe on the cam was scratched up.
I guess it is replacement time.
The cam is not a Crane as the original owner told me.
It is an Ultima MW520. 114-68 on the chart below.
The Midwest and Ultima sites do not have any dealer lists.
Where can I purchase Ultima products?
Since I need to replace the cam, can someone recommend a replacement cam.
My current sweet spot is at about 2800 RPM. If I keep it around there it will pull like a train but it's a little weak in torque in the lower rpm ranges.
89" stroker.
Super G carb.
Edelbrock manifold with heads ported to match the rectangular ports on the manifold.
I have a six speed transmission.
I can't remove the rear lifter block because one of 12 point bolts is rounded.
I used a 12 point Snap-on socket to remove all of the other bolts but it just wouldn't remove the last one.
It is on the front of the rear block, closest to the cylinder.
The cylinder heads are still on.
Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out.
Cam specs MW520 114-68
Intake open/close 28/54
Exhaust open/close 69/23
Duration int/exh 262/272
Lobe Center int/exh 103/113
Valve lift int/exh .520/.520
Overlap 51 degrees
TDC Lift int/exh .209/.194
Lobe Sep Angle 108
When choosing a cam you have to consider your riding style.
Do you want low end torque or high end speed?
Do you have high lift springs in the heads?
With that build if you don't already have high lift springs I suggest you install them and get a cam worthy of that motor.
If you have high lift springs I would suggest an EV-5 or 51 and I have heard good things about the Woods 6H.
#23
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I think you are going to want an Andrews EV27 cam or an EV13.
Most people run the EV27 but some like me run the EV13. They both are great. The EV27 sacrifices a little bit on the low rpm to get more out of the high rpm. The EV13 sacrifices a little bit on the high rpm to get more out of the low rpm.
Heavier bikes, or bikes that are regularly ridden two up / heavy load do better with the EV13. Light bikes with a solo rider / light load can use an EV27.
You really can't go wrong with either of these two.
Don't forget to install a new Torrington cam bearing.
Most people run the EV27 but some like me run the EV13. They both are great. The EV27 sacrifices a little bit on the low rpm to get more out of the high rpm. The EV13 sacrifices a little bit on the high rpm to get more out of the low rpm.
Heavier bikes, or bikes that are regularly ridden two up / heavy load do better with the EV13. Light bikes with a solo rider / light load can use an EV27.
You really can't go wrong with either of these two.
Don't forget to install a new Torrington cam bearing.
His ain't anywhere near stock.
Both of those cams would be a step back from what he already has.
I do agree that he should install a new cam bearing though.
#24
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Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
All that is good advise for a stock or near stock motor.
His ain't anywhere near stock.
Both of those cams would be a step back from what he already has.
I do agree that he should install a new cam bearing though.
His ain't anywhere near stock.
Both of those cams would be a step back from what he already has.
I do agree that he should install a new cam bearing though.
#25
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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#26
#27
The G is not helping low end performance,
This booster (purple kit) could help with that,
http://www.xxxcarburetors.com/productpage.html
This booster (purple kit) could help with that,
http://www.xxxcarburetors.com/productpage.html
#28
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The G is not helping low end performance,
This booster (purple kit) could help with that,
http://www.xxxcarburetors.com/productpage.html
This booster (purple kit) could help with that,
http://www.xxxcarburetors.com/productpage.html
I tried it with my E and it didn't help a bit.
#29
I finally got the rear lifter block out and the roller on that lifter was pretty beat up.
I am glad that I stopped when I did. I can see the needles under that roller and it looks like it could give out at any time.
The cam chest is pretty clean.
I have new lifters, new Mw520 cam, gasket set and new quickie pushrods.
I'll replace the cam bearing tomorrow and wait for all of the parts to come in.
I am glad that I stopped when I did. I can see the needles under that roller and it looks like it could give out at any time.
The cam chest is pretty clean.
I have new lifters, new Mw520 cam, gasket set and new quickie pushrods.
I'll replace the cam bearing tomorrow and wait for all of the parts to come in.
#30
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