You can't get AC volts at the battery. The meter was set wrong and that reading needs to be ignored. If you get just a couple of volts at the stator....... assuming we're checking the side of the plug that goes to the stator and not the VR (I ain't assuming nothing!), then the stator is shot.

 

Well at this point I am at a loss...if your meter show 0 ohms when you touch the two meter leads to each other, then your numbers are not that far off.

Just double checking, are you checking at the stator plug that is in the block and not the plug on the voltage regulator? Is the meter a decent quality meter?

The low AC voltage at the block connector is suspect for a bad stator. But, is the stator and the regulator bad? Or just the stator? Did the stator fail and take out the regulator? I have no idea.

I guess you could replace the stator, then go from there with the regulator...Or just replace both at the same time. YD

 

Sure you can. It ain't a good sign.

 

I bought the meter a few years ago at one of the local auto parts store for $20 bucks or so. Yes, checking at the stator plug in the case, not the wired plug from the regulator.

Stator is gone I think, but will have HD check it. Going to replace the voltage regulator, battery, rotor, and of course the stator. This is where mumbling nasty words and kicking the dog (if I had a dog) is suppose to help my mood.

 

Ha! I never thought about it that way..... it would mean your rectifier wasn't rectifying.

But if you test a DC source for AC current, I'm not sure how a VOM would react, but I'm guessing the readings would be of little use.

 

Replace the regulator since it s likely original and therefore old. Replace your battery since it served its time.

Would not be a bad idea to upgrade to heavy gauge battery cables at this time.

With new parts in place, take readings. I am confident everything will be as it should.

 

Don't just start replacing everything. Low ac volts at the plug is a definite sign of a week "alternating system" Replace the stator and rotor and go from there. You have proper voltage at the battery but just low. It's not like the rectifier failed and blew out all your bulbs... With all the suggestions here "going to your local indy" ain't a bad idea... good luck man...

 

We seem to be going round in dizzy circles here! cosmo glider you are splashing around a bit! Either go through the Sticky systematically, which will normally pin down your charging problem, or get over to your dealer and take up their offer to test your bike. We need a definitive analysis asap, there's a good chap!

 

Going to do exactly that Monday afternoon, thanks.

 

I can't say for sure, but I wouldn't rule it out. You can have AC on DC lines. I work with 125 VDC systems, you see AC, but it is usually due to long lines and induced voltage.

AC is entering the volt regulator, if it is breaking down, I think it is possible.

I do agree you need to be careful reading meters, it is not uncommon to mistake mV for V.

I would start with stator, and make sure about 20 volts per 1k rpm. With out a tach it is trickier, don't be afraid to rev it up. Take it up 60-70 or so volts AC.

Rev the bike up again, stator plugged in, and you should get 14.4 ish DC. These are the first two quick and dirty ways to start.

Electrical manual isn't bad thing to have either, but I think the trouble shooting is writen for hacks, which makes me question bringing bikes into the dealer. Though there is lots out there on testing charging systems and the service manual has schematics.