Misfiring 1992 FXDC
#11
Yeah seats are a problem, I bought a seat from a dealer that I believe was a factory fatbob, I had to change the rear screw tab and widen the front tab to fit it. Nothing is really obvious other than cleaning up the cables and brake lines. If you decide to go with the oem sensor it is just 2 screws and a plug at the other end, no mapping but you should note the position of the old one as this is how you adjust your timing use the old position as a baseline. Get it running right and enjoy, I feel less lonely now that you two showed up!
#12
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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Well guys, it seems like Texashillcountry gets the prize, a virtual beer coming over! First shot right on the (cone) nose! here's a photo, a little shaky but clearly a melt down. Damn I wish i'd asked this question before getting the new ignition coil!! Nothing beats experience and that comes at a cost! Thanks to all of you for your comments and I will be checking out the VOES as her rubber tubes are pretty worn anyway.
OK, so now my question is, is this an easy fix (looks like it) like a simple unscrew and replace (with some wiring connections) or does it need "mapping" or setting up? I think I'm going to go for a simple dual fire replacement and later on review whether to go for a single fire set up. The cost here is around €60/$65 from Zodiac or Custom Chrome...anyone got a specific brand which is good please let me know.
OK, so now my question is, is this an easy fix (looks like it) like a simple unscrew and replace (with some wiring connections) or does it need "mapping" or setting up? I think I'm going to go for a simple dual fire replacement and later on review whether to go for a single fire set up. The cost here is around €60/$65 from Zodiac or Custom Chrome...anyone got a specific brand which is good please let me know.
The Dynatek 2000i will replace the cam sensor and the ignition module.
I like the Dynatek because it makes starting my bikes way easier than the stock module.
In full disclosure I use the stock cam sensor plate with the Dynatek 2000p ignition module but if I couldn't get the stock cam sensor I would use the 2000i over anything else.
What ever you get you should re-time your bike with a timing light.
#13
Thanks guys, I probably will stick with the OEM Sensor...the Dynatek is around $399 so that will have to wait a while! Next big expense is the Seat which as you day Apples is not easy and then the pipes - the previosu owner put some traight through drags which are way too noisy even with baffles and not great on performance....this is going to be a long romance!
Texashillcountry....you cant just drop things like "you should re-time your bike with a timing light" to a newby as your last line! I'll look it up...is it complicated for a "tinkerer". With the stock OEM as Apples402 says, cant I just note the position?
I'll make sure I order all the bits for the change over (including gaskets) and give an update, I'll try and take photos too along the way.
Thanks.
Texashillcountry....you cant just drop things like "you should re-time your bike with a timing light" to a newby as your last line! I'll look it up...is it complicated for a "tinkerer". With the stock OEM as Apples402 says, cant I just note the position?
I'll make sure I order all the bits for the change over (including gaskets) and give an update, I'll try and take photos too along the way.
Thanks.
#14
monchidog, your photos bring back memories. I was stationed in Spain in the Early 70's and seeing the bike with the spanish back drop looked pretty much the same as when I was there. I rode a Bultaco back then.
To answer your question on the seat. When I bought mine it came with 3 seat's, 3 back rest's, cheap saddlebags, an old headlight, old set of shocks, and a bunch more. Anyway 2 of the seats are Corbin and one Mustang. The PO said he put the Mustang on it rode it around for a couple of miles came back and put it back in the box. It looks brand new. One of the Corbin's is a solo and the other is 2up. Out of the 3 of them the Corbin 2up is the most comfortable for me. The Corbin solo would be OK it it could take a back rest like the one for the 2up. The 2up is old and well worn so that may be why it is so comfortable.
I've only had mine for about 2 months now but I have fallen in love with the bike. I go have a question for you and apples402. Does your bike(s) have indicator lights like for oil pressure, high beam, neutral light etc? The reason I ask is my bike does not. Someone along the way spent a ton of money on this bike with a custom front end, loads of bling (every screw, bolt has a cover) etc. but no indicator or idiot lights. The only one I'm really interested in is some type of oil pressure indication. Thanks
To answer your question on the seat. When I bought mine it came with 3 seat's, 3 back rest's, cheap saddlebags, an old headlight, old set of shocks, and a bunch more. Anyway 2 of the seats are Corbin and one Mustang. The PO said he put the Mustang on it rode it around for a couple of miles came back and put it back in the box. It looks brand new. One of the Corbin's is a solo and the other is 2up. Out of the 3 of them the Corbin 2up is the most comfortable for me. The Corbin solo would be OK it it could take a back rest like the one for the 2up. The 2up is old and well worn so that may be why it is so comfortable.
I've only had mine for about 2 months now but I have fallen in love with the bike. I go have a question for you and apples402. Does your bike(s) have indicator lights like for oil pressure, high beam, neutral light etc? The reason I ask is my bike does not. Someone along the way spent a ton of money on this bike with a custom front end, loads of bling (every screw, bolt has a cover) etc. but no indicator or idiot lights. The only one I'm really interested in is some type of oil pressure indication. Thanks
#15
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Thanks guys, I probably will stick with the OEM Sensor...the Dynatek is around $399 so that will have to wait a while! Next big expense is the Seat which as you day Apples is not easy and then the pipes - the previosu owner put some traight through drags which are way too noisy even with baffles and not great on performance....this is going to be a long romance!
Texashillcountry....you cant just drop things like "you should re-time your bike with a timing light" to a newby as your last line! I'll look it up...is it complicated for a "tinkerer". With the stock OEM as Apples402 says, cant I just note the position?
I'll make sure I order all the bits for the change over (including gaskets) and give an update, I'll try and take photos too along the way.
Thanks.
Texashillcountry....you cant just drop things like "you should re-time your bike with a timing light" to a newby as your last line! I'll look it up...is it complicated for a "tinkerer". With the stock OEM as Apples402 says, cant I just note the position?
I'll make sure I order all the bits for the change over (including gaskets) and give an update, I'll try and take photos too along the way.
Thanks.
Get a fine tip marker and mark the cam chest and sensor plate in 2 or 3 places.
Carefully mark your new sensor plate in the same places.
You can do it with 1 but 2 or 3 is more accurate.
Line up your new sensor plate with the marks and you should be good enough not to need a timing light.
Since it hasn't been said yet I'll tell you to toss that Clymer manual and get a Harley Shop Manual.
You will thank me the first time you use it.
#17
Oh by the way I agree with Texashillcountry, you should check your ignition timing when you replace the sensor. The way you do that is there is a allen head plug at the "V" of the cylinders on the left side. Warm the bike up to operating temp. Idle the bike up to I think 1250 rpm (not sure on this but I'll look it up) then Remove the plug next point the timing light to the hole and you should see a dot on the flywheel centered in the hole. If you need to change the timing then you just need to loosen the plate the sensor sits on and move in the direction it needs to go. Do this in very small increments. Also be prepared to get oil spray out of the plug hole, they make a clear plastic plug, that you can get off ebay to prevent this. Also check out ebay you can get a service manual for this bike. I got a used one, but I saw some new one (NOS) out there.
#19
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