Hi guys. Bill, you wre probably based in Rota? if so thats not far from me, Im down south in Gibraltar (my home) but living on the spanish side. Thanks for the timing instructions, will look into that but hope not to need it. Regards the idiot lights, what Apples has is the original on the bike, my PO took the brow off put wide glide forks and then added a small aftermarket idiot light set up which are screwed in the top underside of the top yolk, heres a pic. as long as your cables are there tucked away somewhere they should be easy to connect of the front of the harness.


In terms of removing the Ignition Sensor plate, heres what I did last night:
1. Remove the cover, no rivets so clearly been done before. Behind the cover there is a gasket, a metal plate another gasket and then the sensor plate set up. You can actually see the gunk has oozed down through the hole so anyone who knows what they're doing (not me!) would have seen this before even opening it. Anyone tell me why this happened, should u be looking for something else or is it just "because it does".



2. Find the connector plug which is under the battery, so easier to remove the battery entirely. I think i just pulled it apart, dont twist. Also you'll see how the wires are inserted, red at the top, blue and green at the bottom, make a note as you need to unplug these. I pushed them back out with a small screw driver, not sure if thats correct but basically worked.






3. Now mark the position of the sensor plate. I did it a few times as Texas said, not a good marker but you get the idea - the accuracy will only be known once the new one is on!



4. Now unscrew the two screws holding the sensor plate and remove and you can remove the cable back through the hole at the bottom of the sensor plate housing, there'll probably be a small cable bracket screwed in to remove also. without the rubber connector she'll pass through.




Now to order the gasket and new timing ignition sensor plate and as the books say...repeat in reverse. When i get my parts Ill put some more photos just so the whole process is complete.
Thanks

 

You only need one gasket and you can probably reuse the one you have (depends on the condition of the old ones).

As for why it happened it was caused by the materials they had at the time.
The new ones are better.

Look at it this way the old one lasted 24 years and the new ones should last longer.

As for anyone who it's happened to I bought a '94 Softail Custom that had the same problem.

 

OK appreciate that Texas, I didn't want to fix it and then find I fixed the symptom but not the cause...and I will look out for a "proper" manual!!

 

Thanks for the info Monchidog & Apples402. The headlight bucket has been changed out so I hope the wire's are still there. The bike has 4" risers with drag bars. I also have a fork bag mounted to the risers so I'm thinking I may put a cheap set of LED between the risers.

Yes I was stationed in Rota and lived in Puerto de Santa Maria. We used to go down camping not far from Gibraltar but the name of the place escapes me right now. The whole area is quite beautiful and great riding too!

I double checked the RPM range for checking your timing. I was off by 50 RPM. Book calls for 1300 - 1500 RPM with the VOES connected and working. Good luck with the sensor. I have the Service manual so if you need info just let me know.

 

I have seen people put led's in the dash like a soft tail, if the wiring isn't too messed up, shouldn't be too bad a job to put them between the speedo and tach.

 

Hi Guys, Well i finally got the part and fitted it, had marked the ignition sensor so I think it was pretty accurate. Took her out and she is behaving in exactly the same way...loud popping and somewhat accelerated, definitely not firing properly. I warmed her up and reset the S&S Carb, idle and idle mix (it was too dark to adjust the fuel mix screw so will try tomorrow if that will make any difference?) Idle was adjusted, took off and immediately started popping and accelerated.
Could the timing have been put out from before...I'll probably take it somewhere to get that looked at but I thought I'0d at least be able to ride her.
Could it be the VOES...haven't checked that as the sensor was clearly melted?
Any more ideas appreciated otherwise I'll just bite the bullet and take her to a mechanic!
By the way Bill, heres a pic from a dash that had the idiot lights put into it as Apples402 mentioned.
Thanks guys (another 2 weeks wasted with no result..aaarh!)

 

I am thinking you have an air or vacuum leak check all the carb connections and seals, as well as the vacuum lines to the VOES and petcock of it is still vacuum...there is another post here that had the same symptoms as you was a bad petcock.

 

Thanks Apples402, I'll check the VOES and petcock then take the tank off and check all the lines to the carb.

 

OK guys, checked for leaks around the manifold but seems ok. BUT when i disconnected the VOES at idle there was no change to the RPM so my guess is i need to change that (note i didnt say thats the problem but its hopefully an elimination of one!). The tube looks ok. Once I take it off Ill do another check sucking on the tube I've seen on youtube.

Now, how do you get the VOES off the bike! Tanks off etc but it seems to have some kind of locking washer device...do i just prise that off with a screwdriver?

Will keep you updated.

 

Thank Monchidog, I've ordered the lights and just waiting for them to get here. My buddy who has the indy shop had an old single speedo bracket I've modified and will mount it to the bar's. Although I like the way yours look.

Once you get the new VOES, I would check that timing since you have changed the sensor and the VOES. I haven't actually had to change out a VOES so I can't answer your question on the locking washer device. I guess I've never paid attention to how it is installed.