Pipe Wrench and a pull pipe.
#11
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Long Island, New York
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Yes, they can be very stubborn to get off. And per the manual you are supposed to remove the tubes from the trees first, but then you have nothing to hold the tube to get that top bolt out. Best to leave them on the bike (as you did) and a wrench with lots of pipe. Nice to have a friend as well to make sure the bike stays upright. Good job.
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lunatikfringe (10-26-2016)
#12
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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That is not what was stuck! The top Cap (bolt) came off with out any issues. I have had the forks off many times and changed the oil often. It is what the top cap screws into that was stuck. That bolts holds the spring in place. That was the bear. and it is not a hex. It's 2 sides flat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Ji...0AAOSwv0tU8W72
and a rattle gun make that a real easy job.
Also makes it a breeze to tighten it back up.
#13
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lunatikfringe (10-26-2016)
#15
This
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Ji...0AAOSwv0tU8W72
and a rattle gun make that a real easy job.
Also makes it a breeze to tighten it back up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Ji...0AAOSwv0tU8W72
and a rattle gun make that a real easy job.
Also makes it a breeze to tighten it back up.
#17
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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#18
I opened my forks up 20 years after the bike was built, fluid was less than half in both forks and black as night. It was as thin as water too. I gained an inch of travel with new springs and oil. Bike sits higher too you can see the marks where the forks used to sit. There was a reason it bottomed out every bump haha
#19
I opened my forks up 20 years after the bike was built, fluid was less than half in both forks and black as night. It was as thin as water too. I gained an inch of travel with new springs and oil. Bike sits higher too you can see the marks where the forks used to sit. There was a reason it bottomed out every bump haha