Fork oil change going disastrously wrong
#11
01-02-2017, 09:55 PM
Depending on how many miles are on the forks you might be half *ssing the job. If there are 40k miles on those forks I'd take them apart and change the bushings and seals. Then I'd measure the fork oil volume (from the top) as opposed to putting in X amount of ounces. For less than a hundred fifty bucks you could do the job AND throw in a set of Progressive springs.
I've learned how to make a job go fast; skip the shortcuts.
I've learned how to make a job go fast; skip the shortcuts.
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#13
01-03-2017, 07:34 AM
Right now I'm just changing the oil cause I'm on a budget. I do agree with 65-68k on a 20-30 year old bike the seals and bushings needs to be done. When I drained the oil it was BLACK as the paint on the bike. I'm just doing little bits at a time as I can afford them.
Take off the the fork legs and pump out all the old oil, then let them drain upside down in a bucket for a while. Put in new fork oil measured from the top in MM as opposed to OZ. You'll get better results for just a little more work.
#14
01-03-2017, 09:22 AM
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Joe, if you end up pulling the fork tubes, take the top cap nuts off first. It can be difficult to get those off while holding a fork tube not clamped on the bike. I pulled a pair once that had such tight cap nuts, trying to use a socket and breaker bar just turned the tubes in the clamps, had to use an impact wrench to break them loose. Do NOT use red loctite putting them back on! 
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01-03-2017, 10:11 AM
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01-03-2017, 12:31 PM
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01-03-2017, 12:32 PM
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