I found a Crane h-4 ignition behind my point cover. Is this a good ignition system? The coil that goes with it is also on the bike. I googled and read the installation instructions and am left wondering why the original ignition module is still riding around on the frame. The installer hooked up the VOES but I have to wonder why? As a side note there was nothing holding the carb on the manifold, it was just pushed into the rubber grommet????? I really love old motorcycles and marvel at what wonderful machines we used to build, and how they are able to withstand some of the crappy maintenance they received. Mike

 

Yes the Crane is a decent ignition. No one really removes the old ignition module it's really not necessary when you install a system like the Crane or Dyna they're an all in one unit. The VOES is still used by some because it does help in the cruising zone for gas mileage. However it can create a pre detonation issue though. Also the vacuum hose or even the voes it's self can cause a vacuum leak leading to drivability problems. I choose not to use it.

You might want to get an FSM and see what you need for a carb bracket. should not be like that.....

 

If I remember right there should be some small brackets and bolts holding your back plate to the heads.

If you buy an S&S carb you bolt the carb to the intake with 2 large bolts.
A much better system IMO.

 

The backing plate bolts directly into the heads. Without it, the carb is just dangling.

 

I have allways wondered...
Are these ignitions worth the buck?
You read good and bad stuff on them...
I can imagine if you have upped compression and other stuff, they do great..
but with a stage 1 or 2?

 

^^^ What they said. Top breather has a plate that is part of the head breathers and the carb attaches to it. The OEM one has a few parts, but there are aftermarket ones that are a one piece design. http://www.jpcycles.com/1993-harley-...pport-brackets

 

I've had the Dyna 2000 on my 93 FLHS for the past 15 years. No problems whatsoever. It has select-able timing curves, which will also allow the engine to rev above the OEM module. Really nice for those times when you want to 'get on it'. IIRC, mine is set for ~6000 rpms before it cuts out. Only rev'd it that high a couple of times, and when it cuts out, you know it. Definitely something you want, IMO, if you're looking to get all the horsepower the engine can deliver.