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Right in the middle of it. It snowed here in Al saturday and I started tearing the bike down. Got the old out and started putting the new in. Ran into some small issues with the "special tools" needed for the install. I had to improvise and had to build a main drive gear removal and installation tool which slowed down progress. Got all put back, then the new shift drum wanted to be a pain in the ass. So when I got it in I stopped. Will try and start again this after noon. I am at work because in Alabama when it snows the powers that be shut everything down and send everybody home except maint. guys.
Paco,
What problems did you have with the shift drum?? Does your drum have a detent for the neutral switch when it is in neutral?? We've put a bunch osf these in and maybe we can help.
__________________
John Therrien
SPEED COSTS, HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO ????
Marines may guard the gates of heaven
A job they may do well !!
But it takes the 82nd Airborne
To guard the gates of hell !!
Thanks for the reply. I need all the help i can get. the instructions were written for a qualified mechanic, which I am not. So getting the shift forks in the right position and then getrting the shift drum to fit properly was a bit of a pain for me. I kept moving the forks and rotating the shift drum until it finally fell into position. After I got all bolts snugged down, without hooking all the linkage up I tried to shift the trans. was very hard to do with just the small shift arm attached to the trans. As for the detent for the nuetral switch, I really don't know . I have not gotten that far yet. I have the cover just sitting over the drum at this time because I was called to work and had to stop my liitle home project. Hope to get back on it tonite. One other thing. The main drive seal that was sent with the kit. The inside diameter of the seal was to big for the spacer. Have you run across this? I am going to have to get a new seal before I can put the drive side back together.
I would appreciate any help or suggestions that you have concerning the swap.
Hey Paco,
I have been readen n watchen all of your progress, with great interest. I hope your not at a standstill.. I haven't even touched my ol bagger yet. your pics and everything is great,Thanks for sharing! Hope ya get er done!!
I have the trans in. The hold up is the clutch pilot bearing. Our company bearing rep said he could get me a bearing and save me some money. Waited a week, hoping he would have the bearing yesterday. would have had her close to complete last night, but NO, he is afraid the bearing he could get would not meet the tolerances and such as the stock bearing. Proprietary parts, he called it. Anyway, called my local dealer, they will order me one, will be sometime at the end of week, MAYBE, could be first of next week.
Now, for the next problem. I think i have found a screaming eagle race brace. However, the door on the trans is twice the thickness of stock. so, the brace will have to be spaced on the front nose cone. With the brace, I don't know if I will have enough space between the nose cone and the exhaust header to clear.
Also, since the new motor has a oil filter bracket on the front of the motor like the newer models, i have removed the old filter bracket from under the trans swing arm and will try to fabricate some sort of a stabilizer mount to mount here. ( onthe old 90model, the oil filter was mounted just in front of the back tire under and behind the trans.) A paco version of thetru-track as such.
Enough of my whinning. The weather here sucks anyway.
Paco,
Yes the shift forks can be a little intimidateing until you do a few, then after not doing one for a few months the fun starts all over again.
Take a look at your shift drum. When the tranny is in neutral there should be a small "detent" (looks like a 1/2" drill bit started to drill a hole and stopped) right where the neutral switch would beriding on the drum. If there is and your neutral light is not functioning properly then PM me and I will tell you how to get the light to work properly.
Yes there are two different seals.
__________________
John Therrien
SPEED COSTS, HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO ????
Marines may guard the gates of heaven
A job they may do well !!
But it takes the 82nd Airborne
To guard the gates of hell !!
I finished the trans install last night late. Been waiting on a clutch pilot bearing from HD for the last week. Anyway, for those who might be going to do this on a normal almost stock bike there should be no issues. If you have a modified motor or a big bore and read where you need a torque arm or SE race brace there will be modifications to consider. On my 1990 there were no clearence issues inside the trans housing. the trap door of the 6 speed is about 2x as thick as the OEM trap door. Then add the race brace which is another 1/2 to 5/8 in. thick to the trans and bolt it to the nose cone. all is well right? Try to put the clutch releasecover on the trans. won't go, the clutch cable holds the cover off the trans at least a 1/4 in. So, I made a spacer out of aluminum that fit the cover and the door with a cover gasket on each side. al is well right ? wrong, now the clutch rod that goes thru the trans is too short so when the clutch lever is pulled nothing happens. so i had to go to HD and buy a shovelhead 4 speed clutch push rod which is longer than the 90 model by < > 1/4 in. Used rivera pro clutch, the adjuster from my 90 model was to short to reach the clutch rod so there was no adjustment. called HD, all adjuster screws are the same length, so I had to find a bolt long enough to reach the clutch rod. (for now) Almost thru, Started putting the exhaust back on. The exhaust bracket was too long so I cut it off. Got the exhaust bolted on and the front exhaust is hitting the race brace. I can't clear it with out grinding the race brace down so I left it touching. Started to put the floor boards back on. The front exhaust is hitting the floor board mount so I had to space it out to clear. I also made a Tru-trac of sorts which I will post a pic . Now today i went out , took the charger off the battery checked to see how much trans fluid and primary fluid had leaked out on the floor and turnd the switch, nuetral light came on, hit the starter. The ol'107" lit off and down the road I went. About 15 miles down the road I stopped and adjusted the clutch cable and 250 miles later I am back home with no issues. The trans shifts slick, it is quiet, and I have 6 speeds. I didn't use the 6th until about 70 +. The rpm difference is about 400 - 500 from 5th to 6th.
RE: Ultima 107" motor on a 90 model Bagger
