Classic beast Not yet but have followed thes motor for a couple years intently and do know the guy that has tried blow them up ,Kendall .I will own one when i do a upgrade on may bike i have now . Kendall did my last one with a 95" kit that made a 115hp. One thing i do know , a 80" motor that has been takeen care of will run 100,000 + miles. Do i or you exspect a 120" motor from anyone to run a 100,000 miles,i don't. I will stay with a 100 or 107" epa motor. I can not pay what most motor companies want for a motor and if it was not for jerih at 3,699 for a black 100" i would not buy it. I do know some 124 s&s motors that spend to much time on the lift because of the way the owner's runs them but would i run it for 60,000 miles with out problems?? Maybe , but probably not. I would excect the same from any motor that size make'n that kind of power if run hard. How did you make a 110" motor from S&S ,a mix of parts? Not a complete evo from them unless something like a proprietary motor like big dogs 100" smooth.

 

I have been talking to Kendal about doing the heads on my 127 and will probably send them to him once I'm done for the season. Attached is the details on the S&S 110 motor

 

Kendall will do you right . Good motor ,4" bore on that 110". Some of these 4and 1/4 bores ,man there is nothing left on the inside of those pistons. And then you see guy building 135's or bigger for the street. Was that motor a one year thing? . My 95" i had made run like a raped ape for the 10,000 miles a had it and then sold it. Got away from the baggers. I missed that you have a dd6, i had one and after a couple of months of shifting problems they replaced it with a rgular 6 speed. Found out at the smoke out that they did have a second round of problems. You must have one of the good ones. Mine was in early 05.

 

check out the 203 they build for a stock frame, 5 inch bore

 

It helps with the larger cases 1/4 inch wider then the S&S 3/8" gives a lot more room also the pistons are made from better materials

 

The DD6 broke the bearing retainer clip on the bearing door for the countershaft, Baker says to send it to them and they will upgrade it to the newer style with a retainer plate which is stronger. I was lucky and the pieces didn't go through the transmission.

 

I don't think i will have another baker prodct .They left me with a bad taste, The darn owner even stopped by going to daytona (to check it out) and at that time said ,look fine to me. You had to ride it hot and then someone could fell the problem . I was going over today for a later model primary cover but will do it tomorrow. 203"????? dam, Heck the pro stock motors are 4.8. Well if it can be done they will. TQ monster. Zake has a fxr with a 126" make'n 150 rear wheel hp and spoke wheels that he was play'n with at the smoke out. Darm bike sound like a stock bike.. When i was talk'n about 4" bore motors i ment hd cases. Warm enought for a ride now,Later.

 

Have a look at the 203

http://www.sculpturecycles.com/a-Engines-Dux.htm

 

HA,HA,HA,, dam 21,000 +. That would be like putting a 800" motor in a car . Three compression releases on each cylinder. Dam. Wonder how many rpm's in will turn. I don't know, it would be funn to crank on it one time . Those kind of prices are just crazy.

 

I just ordered a "EPA" Ultima 113, but was told the Ultima 100 is the most reliable Ultima engine and the 113 is the most popular model they sell. No one there knew what was different internally with the EPA model as opposed to the NON-EPA model - but the EPA models come with a 2 year/ 24000 mile warranty whereas the NON-EPA models have 1 year/ 12000 mile warranties. The salesperson did mention that Ultima was more fussy with the warranties on the EPA models, that Ultima did not allow you to change anything on the EPA models, whereas the NON-EPA models you could make some changes and they would still honor the warranty. I went with the EPA model knowing I would not make changes until the two years/ 24000 were finished.