Scratched Pushrods & Bad Lifter
#1
Scratched Pushrods & Bad Lifter
Had a tapping noise in the mornings when I start up cold recently. This is about a mth after I did a cam change(EV27), adjustable MadDog pushrods, lifters, Torrington Cam Bearing and all other shims and seals.. Sure sounded like the lifters have gone bad after a mth and sure one of them did!
Now before I got to my lifters, I took out the pushrods and saw that the one which is above the broken lifter is stratched rather badly around the middle section. The pushrods are red and they're scratched silver.
Is the scratched pushrods caused by the lifter failure or is something in the pushrods' way which is causing the pushrod to have some kind of 'uneven' contact on the lifter causing it to fail?
Thanks!
Now before I got to my lifters, I took out the pushrods and saw that the one which is above the broken lifter is stratched rather badly around the middle section. The pushrods are red and they're scratched silver.
Is the scratched pushrods caused by the lifter failure or is something in the pushrods' way which is causing the pushrod to have some kind of 'uneven' contact on the lifter causing it to fail?
Thanks!
#3
#4
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Bluffton, South Carolina
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Scratching/scraping is from a clearance issue. This can be caused by the change in the geometry from the new cams, the pushrods being a larger diameter, or from the the pushrod flexing. Take a look inside the pushrod tube and see if there is something that might be causing this as that would be the easiest fix. Also if the lifter was failing to "pump up" that would allow the pushrod to move around slightly. Hope this helps.
#5
The roller broke. And nope they were not Harley lifters. Got them off Ebay. The ones I'm using now are Crane lifters.
I noticed the pushrods are slightly thicker than the original ones. I trimmed the bottom of the chrome pushrod cover.. I've got no idea what that part is but it seems to be the only cause of the scratches if the pushrod were to slant even VERY slightly to the front. The first pushrod that is... It's already at a very sharp angle.
I noticed the pushrods are slightly thicker than the original ones. I trimmed the bottom of the chrome pushrod cover.. I've got no idea what that part is but it seems to be the only cause of the scratches if the pushrod were to slant even VERY slightly to the front. The first pushrod that is... It's already at a very sharp angle.
#6
MadDog pushtubes are like some Andrews, a version of Rivera, RevTech and others - they're a LOT fatter to allow for a strong, lightweight tube with enough room to effect the "fully adjustable" or timesaver feature. Rubbing the inner pushtube cover isn't unusual with those types of rods and had nothing to do with your tappet failure. Just got a bad one, that's all.
As mentioned in an earlier post, if the lifter was "down" at any point, it would allow the disc in the top to wiggle enough to let the rod contact the cover, but most likely it was simply a clearance issue with the cover and you did the right thing to "open it up" a little. The scratchs shouldn't hurt anything assuming it only went thru the paint and not deeply into the metal of the pushrod. But if it did, I'd seriously consider replacement.
As with anything built light and super strong at the same time, any compromise of the integrity of the structure is a recipe for failure at some point.
And just gotta add - you can't beat genuine HD lifters for the money - about 145.00 for 4. And before I get crucified, I'm running Jim's Big Rollor tappets. But for the money, I'll go back with HD whenever I go into anything on that side of the engine, regardless.
As mentioned in an earlier post, if the lifter was "down" at any point, it would allow the disc in the top to wiggle enough to let the rod contact the cover, but most likely it was simply a clearance issue with the cover and you did the right thing to "open it up" a little. The scratchs shouldn't hurt anything assuming it only went thru the paint and not deeply into the metal of the pushrod. But if it did, I'd seriously consider replacement.
As with anything built light and super strong at the same time, any compromise of the integrity of the structure is a recipe for failure at some point.
And just gotta add - you can't beat genuine HD lifters for the money - about 145.00 for 4. And before I get crucified, I'm running Jim's Big Rollor tappets. But for the money, I'll go back with HD whenever I go into anything on that side of the engine, regardless.
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#8
Thanks.. hope the problem is solved. Have yet to start it up today.
You guys got it good over there! I'm in Asia and the Dealer charges much MORE than double the 145 for 4! I have no idea and have never bothered asking them but an indy and some other people told me it's like close to US$400 for 4!
I get all my parts ordered from Zanotti or Ebay. A Road King(FLHR) costs abt US$31000 and a CVO Ultra Glide Classic would put you back about 50grand. Yeah they said it's the shipping costs!
09 Touring models are cheaper compared to 08s right? Wrong! They're about 2000 more here!
You guys got it good over there! I'm in Asia and the Dealer charges much MORE than double the 145 for 4! I have no idea and have never bothered asking them but an indy and some other people told me it's like close to US$400 for 4!
I get all my parts ordered from Zanotti or Ebay. A Road King(FLHR) costs abt US$31000 and a CVO Ultra Glide Classic would put you back about 50grand. Yeah they said it's the shipping costs!
09 Touring models are cheaper compared to 08s right? Wrong! They're about 2000 more here!
#10