I have a serious electrical problem with my 88'FXRS...I have recently swapped out engines..I installed an Ultima 120"...I go and try to start it to do my initial break in and the battery,starter and solenoid got hot...pretty hot..and the engine actually was still turning over after I let up from the starter button and turned the kill switch off and key like it was still getting power somehow..it stopped after it drained the battery....I have changed nothing in regards to electrical system with the exception of wiring in the new ignition provided by Ultima...which is wired directly to the coil..the battery cables were upgraded(heavier gauge) last year as well as the starter solenoid..all worked before the swap no problem...my starter is an all ***** 1.4kw..I checked to make sure that everything is wired correctly to the solenoid,etc. and everything appears correct...When I turn on the ignition to see if the cables or battery gets hot...no problem...its after trying to start the bike is when the problems begins...the coil or the ignition/ign.wires never got hot and the only wires I used from the existing harness for the ignition was the white power wire and the pink for the tach..I really need some help with figuring this one out.

 

The contact plate has welded itself to the posts on the inside of the solenoid, so throw it away. Yeah, you may make it work a time or 2, or even for a while, but it'll do it again - guaranteed! And that can explode a battery...

Replace the starter relay (they are "Bosch type", inexpensive and can be purchased at any parts store for about 6.00)

Replace the solenoid.

Check your springs and engagement mechanism in the primary for binding. And you did put the washer back on the starter gear shaft where it goes into the bearing in the outer primary cover(?)

Good luck and keep us posted.....

 

yes I did put the washer back on the end of the shaft....also when this happened the horn started making noise(lightly)..Im wondering when I primed the motor to get the oil up into the engine..I had to crank it for 20 sec with the plugs out...I didnt seem to have a problem..then I put the plugs in and cranked it over...I wondering when I did that and if the solenoid got hot..I didnt give the starter system time to cool down between that 20 sec engine prime and began cranking it over again if that may have caused damage to the solenoid....I let you know what I find.

 

Ohhhhhh.

The ghost in the horn... There were originally 2 heavy ground wires. One attached to the frame on the bottom cross member behind the transmission and the other attached to the backside of the inner primary on the bottom. (can't remember where they were tied together - maybe at the frame) But especially with a rubber mount engine, that ground must be made really good to the engine. It's easy to neglect grounds and possible that the one to the inner primary is deficient. Both frame and engine grounds are extremely important and a bad one will make them do strange things (regardless of vehicle type)

No, that "turn-over" time should not have hurt anything.

Hope you trip over something simple like a loose bolt on a ground. The solenoid may live through it, if that was the case. Good luck

 

A couple months ago I had a similar thing happen with my 113. In my case it was weird as I actually was using the button on the solenoid at the time because the battery seemed a little low but even after I left go it would not release, I had to hit the solenoid a few times to get it to stop. The problem with mine was solved by putting in a new battery so the starter spins as it should. I always use the battery tender now and more liberal with the decompression releases, I also don't let it turn over too long without stopping for a few seconds and then reset the decompression releases before I try again. So far it has not happened again and now that we have warmer weather it is starting much easier.

On edit: I forgot, I also replaced the original cables with Terry Components Complete Battery Cable Kit.

 

I have the ground on the frame connected to the back of the inner primary and the other ground from the battery connected to the solenoid at the inner primary ..where it was before... both are tight...is it possible I need another ground from the engine itself to the frame?...I was running an Odessey battery.

 

Are you charging that Odessey bat with a 6 amp charger ? That's what they call for Every time this situation happened to me it turned out to be the bat By" this situation " I mean the starter not releasing from the ring gear and there is no way to stop the starter from turning in this situation until you pull the positive wire off the bat On one of my customs I use a car style neg post that has a handle I can turn to kill the neg to the bat It takes to long to get the seat off as the starter is cooking !

 

I ran an auto parts store for years, and sometimes we'd see brand new starters do this same thing....

 

I used a different battery and it did the same thing

 

The starter and solenoid on his 88 is not like a car starter. But I have seen rebuilt ones "run on" also. The solenoid internally works the same, but it is all a 2-piece setup, rather than a "unit". It pulls an external fork (inside the primary) engaging the starter gear as it contacts internally to send 12 volts to the starter motor.

Personally, I'd get another solenoid... but only after pulling the primary cover and checking for something in a bind and being totally satisfied the grounds were good.

And as suggested earlier, make sure you have some sort of way to quick-dissconnect the battery until you have it solved.