went out for a 200 mile run today, bike ran perfect.temps were in the low to mid 70's and speeds were typically in the 45 to 65 mph range.

going home with 40 miles to go the bike (98 egc carb model stock except for exhaust and filter, 35k on coil and ign module 12k on engine) and the bike just died. no warning no nothing, just died. pulled the clutch in and tried to start, but wouldn't fire. starter, lights, etc... worked.

thought maybe my gas cap went bad and checked for pressure in the tank, no issue.

tried to start the bike afterwards and all was good. was back on the road and about 2 minutes later it shut off suddenly a second time. no warning just like i hit the off swith or turned the ignition switch off.

on the side of the road i had no tools except for a black craftsman allen key. don't know if it conducts electricity, but i don't know why it wouldn't. using the allen key i had no spark and of course no start. after a few more tries to start it just turned over and no start.

we decided to call AAA, while my buddy was on the phone i used a key to check spark on the front cylinder and the rear cylinder fired and i had spark on my grounded key.

put the boot back on and it started and i drove it home 40 miles without issue.

i'm going to ohm the coil tomorrow and do some wiggle tests and check wiring. i'm concerned about the ignition module being the culprit, any way to test it?

and other likely culprit to check?

tks!

 

The bank angle sensor's job is to kill the motor if the bike goes over on it's side. There have been cases like your's where the sensor gets faulty and starts tripping, killing the motor while the bike is still upright. Check yours out.

Not sure on a 98 model, but on my 2001, I believe it was part of the same module that controlled the turn signals...located under the seat.

 

think that part is related to efi/fuel pump cutoff. tks.

 

Oh boy, are you gonna have fun....

If you are lucky it will be the coil or an obvious loose conection. The coil might check out ok since it ran the last 40 miles but could be cracked and have an intermittant issue-that would be a stretch. I'd be looking at the kill switch circuit/switch and doing continuity tests while jiggling the wires and switch. Same thing with the wires going to the primary on the coil. After that I'd be looking at the timing sensor, wires and ignition, if you have a heat gun or hair dryer you might want to heat up the sensor and see if you can duplicate the trouble. They are known to have thermal issues at times. Then it's back to the wires going from the sensor to the ign modual. Since it is an intermittant issue, I can't tell ya how to test the ignition other than swapping it out. I'm sure someone on here has more knowledge than me and will help ya..

My best guess is loose conection/bad wire. If it were thermal it should have happened in the last 40 miles since it was already hot..Hope you have a book to help locate the correct wires.

Doug

 

I'd look real cloely at the ignition pick-up wires coming out of the cam cone. Mine did something like that, one of the wires was broken inside the insulation, so I couldnt see it.When the vibes and temp was right, it would just quit.. Sometimes just restart, finally it wouldnt... While the bike is running, lightly pull on the wires from under the bike, if it stalls, you're on it... I just stripped, soldered and heatshrunk mine. Its been going for about 10k since..

 

Yep, compromised wires coming out the nosecone will drive you nuts.

...anyway, I uploaded the module tests from a '92 book and maybe the harness is the same. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/membe...ule-tests.html

Another problem area hard to diagnose can simply be power going to the ignition system. To bypass the ign and kill switches and breaker, run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, after disconnecting the white wire at the coil. Note: there are 2 white wires - one is the "in" for the module and the other is the power lead going to the coil (and module). Disconnect only the power lead and leave wire to module connected.

Usually, if a module dies - it's dead. Intermintent loss of spark is most often a connection/wire problem... unless the pickup has developed a heat sensitivity issue.

 

the thing i would do first is replace the ignition circuit breaker first before you replace anything else. they're about $7 at an auto parts store. chasing ignition problems can be real expensive.

 

Install a voltage indicator and connect to the ignition circuit. The next time this happens you will at least know if the ignition is loosing supply voltage. That will help narrow it down.