I was told to come to this forum for help. I own a 1988 FLHS that has a shorty S&S E carb. About three months ago I was doing some repairs and with the 95+ temperatures I couldn't get it all done before I had to have serious eye surgery. After three months the doc said to go at it. I got the bike all back together but the carb has been giving me fits. I left the carb on the bike with the gas tank off for those three months. I can't get it to idle any where like it was and this carb has been on the bike for 12 years with no problems. The engine even sounds different. Acceleration is fine. On start up I have to have a long warm up session for the engine to take much throttle. It won't idle when I come to a stop. I stop and the engine idles at first at a 1000 RPM and then drops to 500 and dies. If the bike is on the side stand it will idle forever but not like it used to. You guys have any ideas what is wrong?

 

The carb is gunked up. S&S' seem to be more prone to that from sitting than others. Pull the carb and clean it thoroughly, including blowing out the passage that the idle adjustment screw is in and all the jets.

 

And it sounds like a float level issue, also. Be sure to check it when you clean the carb. (Also, make sure it still floats!)

 

Thanks guys. I am ordering a rebuild kit from J&P and will go through the carb. Last time I filled the tank up I put a whole bottle of STP injector cleaner. It seems to be making things just a bit better but doesn't replace a real cleaning and blowing out every passage.

 

Thanks, Dr.
Been fighting with mine all year, missing just off-idle(1200 rpm to 1500 rpm)
Did a 1/2 *** job cleaning the carb, but going to rebuild it over the winter.
Any suggestions on a good solvent or cleaner?
I'm going to check all my electrical connections. A lttle cleaning and di-electric grease won't hurt.

 

if youre going to buy the full rebuild kit and tear it all the way down i like those "carb dip" cans you see at the car parts store......(looks kinda like a can of house paint

plus when youre done you can just put the lid back on the can and the stuff lasts for years

 

I use the stuff like 1990FXR suggests. ChemDip brand or whatever from the auto parts store. Probably illegal now. Anyway, I just soak the parts in that, then blow them out with compressed air. The jets can be a bit more problematic if they are really gunked up. Everything says not to do it, but I've had to push a bit of wire down them to get the crud out before, even after soaking, blowing, etc.

 

I suspect gunk in the low speed jet and/or some of the idle circuitry. Took it apart and sprayed carb cleaner in it, but after reading these posts I'll do the soak.
Wonder if one can clean the jets with a welding tip cleaner?

 

You could try. I like to try to get a piece of thread down, as it won't score the brass and once the gunk has soaked for a while it will usually come off with just some rubbing from thread or very small string. Maybe some light weight fishing line? I've had to resort to more drastic measures like the tiny drill bits from my welding tip cleaner set on occasion, but I first try to push the non cutting end down. I think running the carb empty before putting it up for the winter helps minimize these problems, as does putting stabil in.

 

The best cleaner is Seafoam-- spray or else in the tank. I have seen that stuff work miricles