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overlaoding circuit breaker

  #11  
Old 06-17-2011, 05:58 PM
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I did some rewiring so that all side bag lights and tour pak lites are now on a seperate toggle switch, fixed wires up so the only lites that come on when I turn on ignition switch is dash, the only lites that come on when I turn on light switch is front tip , dash rear tip and tail light. I changed out the one circuit breaker that thought may be the problem. As soon as I turn on headlight and 4 way flashers it kicks off. Is it possible that the 30 amp breaker is bad?As well if I turn on the tour pack lites along with lights and maybe hit the brake or 4 way flashers it kicks off.
I've also read in other posts about guys putting relays connected to lights such as H4 halogens, passing lights and probably can also be done to my tour pack lights, does this sound like something that may help or has any of you's done this?
 
  #12  
Old 06-18-2011, 07:34 AM
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[ question is the circuit breakers have a short stud and a long stud, is it the long or the short the gets the ignition/lites/ assec wire?[/QUOTE]

It makes no difference which terminal is powered or loaded. We usually put the power on the short terminal and the load on the longer one, that way you have more room to add additional items.
 
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:29 AM
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Sounds like the inrush current is breaking the connection to your run stop switch. check ALL the connections from the battery to the throttle control housing.
 
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by miacycles
[ question is the circuit breakers have a short stud and a long stud, is it the long or the short the gets the ignition/lites/ assec wire?
It makes no difference which terminal is powered or loaded. We usually put the power on the short terminal and the load on the longer one, that way you have more room to add additional items.[/QUOTE]

John I kind of Figured so. John have you ever had to add relays for passing lights or hi/lo beam headlites like for halogen type bulbs that operate hotter and perhaps cause more load?
I did find a wire connected to the wrong side of constant power 15 amp breaker , I could actually feel it in my hand clicking off.
Wandering if I should still consider relays?
 
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:38 AM
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Relays switch the load, replacing a switch. Not really replacing, but handling the heavy lifting of the switch. You still need some circuit protection with the relay in the circuit, so you would still need a breaker or fuse of some type. And you still need a switch to control the relay.

Things that get hot in the circuit are using electricity. That heat comes from somewhere, and it comes from resistance at that point. If your breaker is getting hot, it probably has higher internal resistance than spec, although there is a certain amount of heat generated by the breaker, because that's how they work.

As I said earlier in this thread, you need to start disconnecting your extra stuff one circuit at a time until your problem goes away. Then you'll know where to look.
 
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:19 PM
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Hess I think found the problem , wire for lites/bag rail lites or something on wrong side of constant power breaker, I was more wandering if there's an advantage putting relay for halogen or passing lights. Kind of like the relay we put on our starters.
 

Last edited by RidemyEVO; 06-18-2011 at 12:53 PM.
  #17  
Old 06-18-2011, 01:53 PM
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Well, the advantage of a relay for the headlight would be that you could switch it off add it to another circuit, getting the load off the ignition switch. It is not that simple. To do it proper, one would need to run a heavier cable from, say the battery lead at the starter solenoid, to a 20 or 30 amp breaker, then to the relay, which would be triggered by the regular headlight circuit, then to the headlight. Use 12 or 10 gauge cable.

I think it would be a lot of work for minimal benefit, actually, unless you are running some monster headlight. And, with our electrical systems, I really don't think we can support a monster headlight.
 
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Old 06-18-2011, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Well, the advantage of a relay for the headlight would be that you could switch it off add it to another circuit, getting the load off the ignition switch. It is not that simple. To do it proper, one would need to run a heavier cable from, say the battery lead at the starter solenoid, to a 20 or 30 amp breaker, then to the relay, which would be triggered by the regular headlight circuit, then to the headlight. Use 12 or 10 gauge cable.

I think it would be a lot of work for minimal benefit, actually, unless you are running some monster headlight. And, with our electrical systems, I really don't think we can support a monster headlight.
Thanks Hess I was thinking the same but was just looking for confiramation from the good Doctor.
I already rewired the front end so the lights don't come on with the ignition starting, I use the lights switch for lights. I guess they jump a green wire from the ignition circuit to the lights circuit for the government regulations, a matter of a snip. The bikes all back together including the new single fire crane coil and its running great.
Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 06-19-2011, 08:35 AM
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I have the same question for. 1998 Dyna posted under DYI Electrical

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...ml#post8471182

Am running stock headlamp. Added HD running lamps to engine guard.

Advice appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bull_Duck
I have the same question for. 1998 Dyna posted under DYI Electrical

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...ml#post8471182

Am running stock headlamp. Added HD running lamps to engine guard.

Advice appreciated.

Thanks
Posted a wiring solution to that thread along with some additional information. I agree with Dr. Hess's summation also.
 

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