Even if you position the cam where the valve springs have the least amount of force on the cam you will have at least two springs pushing down on the cam. This would give you at least 300 lbs. of force the inner lobe is about 1" away from the bearing and the outer is about 2.5" from the bearing. This distance will increase the load on the inner bearing by simple leverage. This much force on the bearing can/will damage the rollers or the cage/race. This damage will cause failure down the road. If you are tearing it down for paint you might want to remove the stock pushrods if the cam will allow you to use them as gaskets are cheaper than pushrods and you get to examine more of your engien as a bonus.

One of our customers did this a few years ago. he used some cribbing and a pry bar to re-install the cover. About a month later the inner cam bearing went out of it. The outside of the roller cage had a dent in the bottom of it from the cam, It caused the bearing to fail at a great expense to him.

We have a cam jack that we us when we want to install the valve train and rotate the engine with the ability to look into the cam chest and check clearances,etc. but it is a specialized piece of equipment that a lot of shops don't have. In closing I will restate just get a set of adjustable push rods that will allow you to install them without removing the rocker boxes, most manufacturers have them. Stay with a name brand manufacturer as there are some low quality pushrods out there. We use Rivera, Andrews, or Woods. Hope this helps.

 

This distance will increase the load on the inner bearing by simple leverage. This much force on the bearing can/will damage the rollers or the cage/race.

I can see where you are coming from on this. It flat makes sense, considering other things I have done in the past and I`ll call them shortcuts. Some work really well while others can be a stretch as to being a good idea. If I had ALOT more experience at these engines I would be more comfortable trying it. LOL If I get a wild hair and try it Ummmm I have been duly warned. Thank you very much Sir WP

I've noticed that Andrews offers aluminum ez push rods. Do y`all have a opinion them?

 

The E-Z aluminum pushrods are OK as long as you don't go too crazy with the cam and springs.

 

I've been usng the Andrews pushrods for
Near 3 years without any issues. For the chrome cover I believe you will have to get Proper resized bushings for the used crank end and cam end. I was thnking of shopPing for a chrome cover myself and the bushings come to
Mind.

 

You stick it down the thread that holds the ign rotor on.....has to be properly tempered steel or it may break off in the hole....don't do it if you are not sure but its not a biggie to do it without the rod as the cam goes into the bush way before the cover seats on the dowel so you can tap it up from the bottom with a plastic hammer if you are careful. Make sure the plastic washer on the breather is held in place on the breather with some grease.

 

Thanks Spanner Got it WP

 

The Rocker Boxes must be removed, not the Heads.

 

Opps I had gotten the idea the ez install push rods would allow the rocker boxs to stay on. I`m thinking things will be more clear for me when I start tearing in to it. This wkend I hope BG Thanks WP

 

WP50, the rocker boxes stay on if you use the "E-Z install" type. If you use the non E-Z install adjustable, the rocker boxes must come off. Hope this helps.

 

Ok 2 more newbie question Please LOL Are new push rod tubes required as well? Do the rocker boxs still have to be removed when using EZ install push rod? Thank you very much for the info and help WP