What is a good idle speed for an EVO with Fuel injection? My Cobra FI 2000 says to set the idle at 1000-1050 RPM. That's to high

 

I idle my carbed one at about 6 to 800, but I don't think you can get the FI that low.

 

1000-1050 is the spec.

 

Sounds about right to me.

 

EFI idle can be lowered to 800 like any other Evo but it will still idle like a EFI bike with no cylinder seperation due to the shotgun plenom design, I ran a EFI plenom with the center divider removed to get a Harley idle but still never compared to the Mukuni I have now on the same engine The screw can be adjusted through the air filter base backing plate with the air filter off, the idle will lower after you put the air filter back on also.

Harley's are supposed to be 1000-1100 rpm's for oiling reasons, lower idles will cut off flow by design and splash feed the lower crank bearings to keep the lifters pumped up.

 

Actually, Idle on an Evo can be way lower than 1000-1100 rpm - its the twinks that need to keep the idle higher.

 

On the EFI models.....950 to 1050. Anything below that, you're not charging....you have a fuel pump, other electrical stuff running like brake lights, radio...etc. The Ultras really have alot of things on them requiring electricity.

If the EFI model is set correctly, you have less problems with that wondering idle. The system doesn't forget where it's suppose to idle at as much. The cold idle and hot idle seem to stay put.

 

99.9% of the time, the best thing to do is read the procedures in the factory service manual on how to fix anything harley. Fuel injected EVOs represent that .1% where reading the manual might confuse you. There are several how to's on adjusting the idle speed in this section of the forum. Also, there are a couple of youtube videos. Start by searching for anything related to fuel injection, MMI, or FI and read it. Make copies of the procedures. Learn how to get the fault codes. The one thing in the manual that's helpful is reading the theory of the fuel injection components. The only special tool you'll need to work on fuel injection is a tachometer and they're cheap. You probably already have a voltmeter.

RIght now if your bike seems to run fine there's likely nothing really wrong with the FI system. When cold, the idle should be pretty high then it drops down a couple of times until it reaches the final hot idle of 1,000 rpm. If you shut the bike off for 2 minutes then start it back up, it goes right to that high idle and steps down, only quicker because it's already sort of hot. This is normal.

Do some reading and learning before you start monkeying with it. You'll have to do the work yourself because as has been already said, nobody works on them anymore. Once you understand the system, it isn't really hard to work on.

carl