VOES Woes: ground wire?
#1
VOES Woes: ground wire?
CAUTION: Amateur at work!
If anyone saw the tank drain thread, the whole reason I wanted to take the tank off was to reconnect the ground wire for the VOES.
Now I can't find the ground wire.
When I was screwing with taking the carb off I'm sure I broke the ground wire that was attached to the intake manifold bolt on the rear cylinder head.
Now I don't see any wire at all.
Their are two wires that come out of the VOES that go into a connector which connects with the coil wires, but I don't see any ground wire connected to the VOES.
How do I ground the VOES? Is there a way to eliminate the VOES altogether?
How do you eliminate the vacuum line that goes from the vacuum of the petcock to the VOES to the carb so you can run a non-vacuum petcock?
If anyone saw the tank drain thread, the whole reason I wanted to take the tank off was to reconnect the ground wire for the VOES.
Now I can't find the ground wire.
When I was screwing with taking the carb off I'm sure I broke the ground wire that was attached to the intake manifold bolt on the rear cylinder head.
Now I don't see any wire at all.
Their are two wires that come out of the VOES that go into a connector which connects with the coil wires, but I don't see any ground wire connected to the VOES.
How do I ground the VOES? Is there a way to eliminate the VOES altogether?
How do you eliminate the vacuum line that goes from the vacuum of the petcock to the VOES to the carb so you can run a non-vacuum petcock?
#2
I am just guessing here, but there only needs to be two wires on the VOES. One goes to ground, and one goes to the ignition module. I do not know where the ground wire is grounded, but it should be one of those wires in the connector. You really can not do without the VOES unless you go to an ignition system that does not use it and instead uses a mechanical advance. All you need to have is one vacuum line going to the VOES if you remove the "T" and the vacuum line to the fuel valve. If there are two nipples on the VOES instead of a "T", just plug one of the nipples.
The VOES is just a vacuum operated switch. It either grounds the wire to the ignition module under high vacuum, or opens the ground to the ignition module when the vacuum drops. It is always open when the engine is not running so that when you start it the timing is always retarded. Hope this helps.
I forgot to mention that the ground might well be at the coil ground.
The VOES is just a vacuum operated switch. It either grounds the wire to the ignition module under high vacuum, or opens the ground to the ignition module when the vacuum drops. It is always open when the engine is not running so that when you start it the timing is always retarded. Hope this helps.
I forgot to mention that the ground might well be at the coil ground.
Last edited by Jim Kraft; 03-05-2013 at 05:06 PM.
#5
#6
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Voes woes.
I am just guessing here, but there only needs to be two wires on the VOES. One goes to ground, and one goes to the ignition module. I do not know where the ground wire is grounded, but it should be one of those wires in the connector. You really can not do without the VOES unless you go to an ignition system that does not use it and instead uses a mechanical advance. All you need to have is one vacuum line going to the VOES if you remove the "T" and the vacuum line to the fuel valve. If there are two nipples on the VOES instead of a "T", just plug one of the nipples.
The VOES is just a vacuum operated switch. It either grounds the wire to the ignition module under high vacuum, or opens the ground to the ignition module when the vacuum drops. It is always open when the engine is not running so that when you start it the timing is always retarded. Hope this helps.
I forgot to mention that the ground might well be at the coil ground.
The VOES is just a vacuum operated switch. It either grounds the wire to the ignition module under high vacuum, or opens the ground to the ignition module when the vacuum drops. It is always open when the engine is not running so that when you start it the timing is always retarded. Hope this helps.
I forgot to mention that the ground might well be at the coil ground.
#7
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#8
After looking at my 99 Softail manual it shows two ground points that are both under the seat on the frame, and shows the VOES grounded at one of these points. I put a toggle switch in series with the VOES to ignition module so that I can retard the timing at idle if I want a really slow potato potato sound. I love to cut it off when I pull up to stop with my fuel injected buddys bikes and watch their faces. They say how come my bike don't sound like that.
#9
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potato potato ...
After looking at my 99 Softail manual it shows two ground points that are both under the seat on the frame, and shows the VOES grounded at one of these points. I put a toggle switch in series with the VOES to ignition module so that I can retard the timing at idle if I want a really slow potato potato sound. I love to cut it off when I pull up to stop with my fuel injected buddys bikes and watch their faces. They say how come my bike don't sound like that.
#10
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voes woes.
Your sled is a 02 with what you describe as Duestch connectors which are simply weatherproof automotive type male and female connector blocks.
Im not quite sure how you lost the original ground as you say it was connected to a carb. mount bolt so it would have a round eye terminal at the end of the ground wire and should be easy to find.?
As described in the replies to your post ., the voes switch is a must and running without it is not something you should do.
If you have a multimeter and know how to use it you can probe the two voes wires you have available to find the wire that is the ground , then simply ground to anywhere on the motor or ground buss .
If you need more help with this procedure , come back here or mes. me.