Thanks for visuals, I will try to pull wheel this weekend. Maybe it will be good news. I am getting a chirp also, that is why I parked it, I did not want to take any chances.

 

To get the outer race (the one in the hub) out you need to run a bead of weld around the inner face of the bearing (the part the rollers run on) when it cools the race will drop out.

To replace you can press or drift in (big socket helps).

When packing the bearing you have to turn the race so you can work the grease into the and around the individual rollers.

Then slap more grease around the race and put it all back together.

I would respectfully suggest that anyone who finds themselves typing "Get the factory manual" without offering any proper input into the question should stop, take a deep breath and go post somewhere else.....what a dull place this forum would be if the answer to every question became "buy the manual!!"

I am always happy to help people learn how to wrench on their bikes.....its why I post here...to share the love....and harass people about oil threads ;-)

 

The bearing race can be pressed ( or driven,) in. The bearing itself just drops into the race. The spacing for end play is dictated by the shims. Good Luck!

 

Thanks all,
I will keep this updated.

 

Service manual just in case your wheel may be different then this generic info.
Torque wrench.
Dial indicator.
Necessary axle shims in .002 inch, .004 inch, .008 inch, .016 inch and .032 inch.
Wheel bearing grease. (See note 1)
Axle nut torque can affect end play by up to .004 inch.
Do not repack the wheel bearing before checking end play.

Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.

Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.

Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than .018 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.

Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thickness, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.

Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.
Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and .018 inches.


Note 1. Always clean bearing in mineral sprits and dry. Then put a walnut size ball of grease on a rubber gloved hand. Then using a pressing motion, walk the bearing around making sure it is completely filled with grease. Then carefully put no more then a pencil diameter snake of grease on the face that goes into the hub. Do not over pack.

 

A note of caution;

make sure the grease is suitable for use on wheel bearings, (many multi purpose greases are unsuitable for this application).

It does not have to be lithium based grease.

 

You may wish to consider unbolting both calipers from sliders while the bike is on a lift.
Tie the calipers back away from wheel and then this will allow you to spin the wheel freely.
A grinding could be a bearing BUT a warped rotor slightly touching a brake pad, a very dirty caliper that is not sliding/releasing or something like new pads on a worn rotor would sound similar...removal of calipers from sliders is easy and can help isolate the problem.
On your year the bearings should get greased after each tire change...some folks grease every other or use the Gary's greaser tool thing...
I would isolate the variables before starting a parts change.

 

Thanks everybody for all the info. if the bearings do need to be replaced it looks like im going to take it somewhere. I don't have the tools needed.Thanks, I will try this also.

 

I understand your point, however........
you are a wealth of knowledge, with years of experience to back it up. Most people who come here have varying amounts of these skills. Those with little or no knowledge can benefit from learning the basics in the FSM, then coming here for clarification or tips on their project. In the case of the OP your excellent advise was above his skill level and tools. I use the FSM to educate myself before coming here or elsewhere to ask for help. "The Lord helps those who help themselves", and so do I.

So, yes, "Read the manual" sometimes is over used, but it is still valuable and and valid advise.

 

I have never had one of these stone age wheels with tapered roller bearings but had many cars with them. My 69 Pontiac manual says to always leave .001 minimum clearance to ensure grease is not squeezed out. My 75 Ford manual calls for a pre-loaded bearing. I have always been a believer in the .001 clearance. However .018 seem to be to be a bit excessive. Does anyone out there run them this loose?