Do you have O2 bungs in the exhaust?

 

No, I would have to get some welded in, or get new pipes that already have 'em.
I want go 2-1 anyway.
It never stops once you start, huh?

 

Don't know about your area but it might not hurt to throw it on a dyno at least you could see where your air/fuel ratio is it only cost $30 per run up here .

 

its not fuel well it is but its not its what you think - you have hot spots in the chamber that is igniting the fuel in a secondary location and the charge that is correct in normal driving conditions, is as was said leaning the fuel curv in just that condition

for me with todays fuel you have too much compression I KNOW i know someone has 11 to 1 and its a dresser and he is 400 pounds that is why you can confirm anything when reading this plastic thin box --

I have an idea --

 

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Not much I can add that has already been said. I have a good dyno man 45 min from me, or I would have went the bungs & meter route. My Bike was tuned after all modification's were done, and with a Dyna 2000i set on most aggressive advance curve & cr of 9.25:1, I get NO pinging , anywhere , on the rpm range. I also went down a pulley tooth from 32 to 31 on tranny. I'm 240 lbs & wife doesn't have a Barbie doll figure & on the same style bike as you. But I'm running a S&S 'E' carb & a little on the rich side, gas mileage sucks & has a flat spot & can't go smaller on jet size. But I have a new Bob Woods built, CV carb in the shop ready to go on. But that's another thread. If you know of a place with a dyno, & you can trust, pay em a visit. If not, weld you a bung in one of your pipes, & get a meter. Good luck with what you decide.

Ride Safe,
Harold

 

Hey Harold, I'm interested in that upcoming carb swap thread.

 

After reading your post I still think you can tame it, a faint rattle below 2500 is the problem area for most performance bikes. The rattle off idle is a heat soak condition and like JJZ is speaking of, gas is igniting before the spark from heat or hot spots on the piston, that is why flat tops work better. Timing will help in the below 2500 range but not off idle, got to get the cylinders cooled down or fighting a loosing battle.

Being at the edge, going to need tuning equipment be spot on, you are not far off but detonation can be evil to tune out. Next issue is don't dyno tune it if you are going to change exhaust soon, money wasted but make a decision because the rattle is caused by heat and heat will stick a piston so going to sugarcoat this, put some fuel to it dammit try shimming that needle because it controls both cruise and roll on area, richening that area will help both throttle roll on and cruise which is where you are running when the idle rattle is an issue coming off cruise area as you mentioned.

That $160 on the Ultima is a good price but the coil is junk, got 1/2 season out of the coil but the module has been strong for several years, will help tame the midrange but not much help off idle as mentioned earler.

Something that happens when tuning is for every 1 degree of timing retard, richens AFR .1 so 10 degree retard richens AFR 1.0, noticed this from EFI tuning so a voes can pull detonation out of a problem area unless the AFR's are way out of bounds to start with.

 

I should have some more programming cables for the Dyna/Ultima iggy this summer:

https://sites.google.com/site/vrusb2000i/

 

Why is there a "rear cylinder timing offset" option? What is the purpose of that?