So this is main jet issue for both of us that adjusting the needle or main jet size should resolve? I still have the adjustable needle should I lower it one clip from where it was and reinstall that and ditch the cvp needle? All the jetting threads I read said 45/180 cvp needle was dead on.

 

The transition is controlled by the emulsion tube. The cvp tube has very good ratings and reviews. If you are running the dynojet, which it sounds like I'd swap that also. It is notoriously rich. Do a google search on dynojet emulsion tube. I'd be getting 45 mpg with a pretty much stock setup and another guy with just dynojet kit would be pulling 38mpg.

 

My mileage was horrible. Right now I have the option of dropping the adjustable needle back in and raising the clip lowering the needle or going to a 185 main? Not sure which way to go I'm getting conflicting guidance!

 

Sorry, I'm no help on dynojet needle adjustment.

btw. It is much easier only changing one thing at a time. So you know what made the change.

 

I'm not on dynojet! I'm switched over to cvp but john is telling me to lower my needle which is fixed unless I drop the adjustable I have back in. As of right now I'm cvp tuner kit which is their needle, spring 45/180 jets and their emulsion

 

I can't speak for John but his post was in reference to OP. This thread is getting convoluted with 2 different carb set ups. Have you tried it with the 45/180 set up?

 

You guys regularly run your engines that high?

When I'm riding around, 3500 is about the most I ever see. Occasionally if I'm pulling hard from a stop I'll see 4k, but only rarely. The engine doesn't feel unhappy at those speeds, just a bit hectic.

On the highway, mine seems really comfortable at around 2800. Right around there the vibrations cancel out and its absolute glass. Puts me at 60MPH, more or less, which is just fine for tooling around the country.

 

Good point. I wasn't hijacking the thread just experiencing the same issue so I'll stop posting here

And no I rarely ever see those rpms but I want to set it up right then let it be once jetted properly. It did pull through 5k at one point so something has gone wrong but I'll leave this thread to the OP

 

lots of ideas have come along in How to fix a CV carb that do not work for every motor and every location

in MY shop i use a different kit ( as almost ( every shop ) in my area uses the same kit ) - it is the kit most shops turn to when the hipe kits do not work and drink fuel for no reason

what you said about your motor i would with a fixed jet lower the main one size, see if it resopnds to that if so - than two sizes if it still responds to the change but is not fixed yet - than 3 sizes - your motor may have high VE -- ( volumetric efficiency ) it does not need rich jetting

Note - i take all the fad kits out when the customer is at his wits end and cant get it right and we re do it IF possable - sometimes we need to replace the carb body as some kits have a drilling in the bodys air bleed < as stuid as that is - simple is the mind set do not make it hard it is not hard to do - back out of the jetting forget what some one else did or dident do

 

John. I put a 185 main in and retested. It pulls to 5000 now. It's not as hard over 4500-5000 but it still accelerates. Seems like that's way too rich for a stock engine. I also backed the mixture screw out to 2.5-2.75 turns with the 45 pilot. Still coughs and backfires when the engine is cold but once hot no backfires. It is still doing random coughs though. Was thinking of going up to a 46 but again. Seems way too rich for stock. I rechecked for air leaks at carb boot and intake seals and none all tight.