Don't force that IAC motor in or out if your studying how it works, Larsfum quote repairs biggest percentage of M&M issues

 

Cool, thanks for the heads up.

G.B.

 

Th other night pulled the air cleaner assembly off of my bike and sprayed off the IAC and sprayed carb cleaner into the couple small openings in the throttle body inlet. I actually sprayed brake cleaner into and around the actuator/plunger, whatever you want to call it on the IAC. I have to say it all looked pretty clean. I then started the bike cold and the IAC motor did not move. So I am pretty sure that is my issue. I will look into replacing it. In the mean time, the bike starts pretty easy cold if I crack the throttle when I hit the starter. Thanks again for everyones input and suggestions with this issue.

Thanks, G.B.

 

Blue., One last thing I failed to mention, and it should have been the first thing that you did. Pull any trouble codes from the bike. There is a key on/ key off procedure for doing it where your engine light will flash the codes. Many times the ETS, and IAC do not generate any TC's.

If you do decide to replace the IAC here are a couple of links to help:

http://www.harley-heaven.com/M1105_idle_speed_MM.pdf

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...control-2.html

Good luck.

 

Larsfum, thanks for the additional info. I didn't realize this bike would have any method of TC identification. I will have to read up on that in my factory service manual for future reference. With a crack of the throttle, the bike starts instantly cold. Not in a hurry to change the IAC. The Cruise-mate I added is awesome as I use it to hold the throttle around 1,000 rpm to warm the bike up. Once warm the bike idles as it should and starts instantly. The bike runs great and have put on over 300 miles the past two weekends. Real happy with the bike after picking it up last October. Thanks again. G.B.

 

Here is how to retrieve trouble codes.
Code 56 is the cam sensor described earlier (located by right foot goo visible under timer cone).
The engine temp. sensor rarely triggers a code.
The loose crank sensor connector that no one checks until the tow truck has brought them home sometimes will throw a code..such a simple thing to check.
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric
14 engine temp. sensor
15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence
update: Code 35 on Magnetti-Marelli EFI Systems
Normally a code 35 is set when there is a problem in the tachometer circuit. We
have identified another possible cause for a code 35 not specifically covered in the
Service Manuals. It pertains to a current or recurring historic code 35 (Tachometer)
on 1995-2001 EFI Touring models including Road Kings not normally equipped with
a tachometer. This code may be accompanied by codes 41, 42 or 56 and perhaps
even hard starting, poor cold idle and driveability issues. The ECM is functional
because it still has Key On power at pin 26.
Diagnosing this possible condition is relatively easy. Using the Scanalyzer, look for
consistent battery voltage in the data monitor mode (you may have to perform a
wiggle test while monitoring) because the Scanalyzer is monitoring voltage at pin 35
of the ECM (not battery voltage across the battery terminals). Closely inspect every
connection from the Main Circuit breaker to the ECM for loose crimps or
connections. Even a loose ECM fuse or intermittent ECM relay can cause this
condition.

 

I bought a new IAC kit at the dealer yesterday for $89. It was cool that they had it in stock. I really didnt want to do a partial gas tank removal per the shop manual to get at the IAC mounting screws. So with just removing the air cleaner assembly, I used a Torx T20 drive bit from a screw driver bit set and placed the bit in a 1/4" drive 1/4" socket. I placed a finger on the end of the socket and pushed to keep the bit engaged in the IAC screws. Then using a 1/4" open end wrench, I was able to remove and install the IAC screws by using the wrench to turn the Torx bit. It took some time and patience but it worked. And then after all that, the new IAC motor worked. The bike started easily cold and immediately idled around 1,500 RPM. After some time idling in my garage, the bike idled down to 1,000 RPM.

Thanks again for all of the help and info on this issue!

G.B.

 

Good to hear, M&M is repairable with some patience and understanding how it works

 

Thank for returning and documenting the resolution.
The M & M system is rather simple and with a little reading most common problems can be resolved.
Rather amazing that a dealer would have a part on stock.
With the list provided you should be further than half way to understanding the M & M EFI on your bike.
Please check the connector..crank sensor mentioned during your next service.