I have a 97 FLHTC-I that I picked up the end of last year. The only time I rode it was a test ride and then home, but noticed the idle was low. I just fired it up for the first time after sitting all winter. It started right up but only idles cold around 500-600 rpm. I don't remember how the bike idled hot and did not run it long enough to get it hot today. I plan to ride it tomorrow and will get it hot enough to see.

I have a factory 97 HD service manual and found the section on hot and cold idle speed adjustment. Question? There are two options in the book for cold idle speed adjustment.

"Cold idle speed adjustment (Domestic Models)"
And
"Cold idle speed adjustment (HDI Models)

Which one do I want?

Thanks, G.B.

 

I would assume domestic and you definitely want to get that idle up to at least 900 b/c your top end is not being oiled properly at that rpm.

 

That's kind of what I was thinking. Just wasn't sure what an HDI model was????

HDI = Harley Davidson International?

Thanks, G.B.

 

Does anyone have a a clue on what the factory service manual is calling an HDI model?

Thanks, G.B.

 

I would touch nothing..That would be an M & M fuel injected bike..leave it alone unless you can confirm that something is wrong...could be nothing or could be something like the fuel lines are falling apart internally, dirty fuel inlet with-in tank (loose tank liner plugging inlet) etc...as a side note I remind everyone to check that the crank shaft position sensor connector is tight..located throttle side, under side plastic cover, located under the seat, triangle fame tube area....that causes you to get stranded when it gets loose...simple push and twist connector that is black in color...make sure to check that connector...people say yeah yeah yeah and do not check it and then end up at a dealer replacing parts and the dealer tech. will not check it either since it is an intermittant problem.
The engine temp. sensor is known to cause eratic idle, surging and all around bad running BUT if bike runs well then leave it alone.
The first start of a season is like waking a bear...give it a moment to wake-up.

 

im, thanks for the feedback and input. Maybe a little more info is in order. I bought this bike the end of last October with 42,000 miles and change on it. 2 owner bike with good service history. Stock engine, air cleaner, and exhaust. Stock stock. I rode it home about 28 miles and parked it after running gas stabilizer thru it, changing the engine oil and filter and filling the gas tank. I don't remember much of the ride home but had trouble starting it a week or later when wanting to get it warm for the oil change.

Saturday was the first start of the season. It started right up on the second try but idled cold 500-600 rpm. I took the bike for my first real ride the next day on Sunday. It took me at least 3 times to get it to start cold. It would start but die and I finally gave it some throttle to get it to start and stay running. Again, idling cold at 500-600 rpm. I had added a cruisemate cruise control over the winter and used it to raise the throttle to 1,000 rpm and allow the bike to warm up real good.

Rode the bike 150 plus miles and it ran great. Warm starts were instant and it was idling around 800 rpm. When I got home, I followed the warm idle speed adjustment in the service manual and bought that up to 1,000 rpm.

So to your point, there may be something else not quite right? I would assume that these bikes with EFI should idle high on a cold start and then idle down as they warm up like other EFI powersport equipment I have owned. Guess I should do some reading up on the M&M EFI system before I play with the cold idle speed.

Thanks, G.B.

 

Your bike will be loyal but keep in mind the following items are known common things:
The two fuel lines will eventually leak or act like a straw with a hole in it so most get the Goodridge HDFL005 fuel lines for about $160 total (both lines) delivered when this happens but some may decide to pay $200 EACH at the Harley dealer for $400 total. Easy do it yourself.
The timer cone area CAM position sensor will melt and give a biege goo visible by right foot timer cone area located were the wire exits the cone at the bottom(right foot near floor board)..the part is an HD part for about $190 and is a do it yourself..
As it (CAM sensor not CRANK sensor) goes bad it will cause difficult starting...crank, crank, crank, crank, crank nothing and then wait a minute then 1/2 crank, boom and it starts.
The gas tank will get some loose liner from center portion that will block fuel inlet and will required removal of center access door (free) and draining of tank, filter gas through coffee filter and return fuel to tank (due this a few times)..that repair is FREE..You notice this situation as fuel starvation while riding, slow down, piece moves , rides OK, then fuel starvation and cycle repeats.....Again please check the CRANK sensor connector mentioned before in the other post (CRANK SENSOR)...the fix is two or three tie wraps/zip ties to keep it from getting loose. FREE FIX.
The engine temp. sensor causes really bad surging, hunting from fast to low idle randomly/flip flop/surging and while riding and at rest..about a $90 part and is a do it yourself...It is not a low idle situation..nobody checks the crank sensor connector (FREE FIX) and then they go to the shop, then they start replacing stuff in frustration...more than 1 forum member has been saved by checking that one part..it will act like someone is switching the run/off switch back and forth randomly over bumps...if this is a winter snow location bike, one were salt is used on the roads, make sure that all the little springs OUTSIDE of manifold area/throttle body are nice, clean...WD 40 bath...there is an engine idle speed control actuator that may be a bit dirty and hanging..just clean it..buy nothing..internally there are some air bleed holes that get dirty INSIDE the throttle body also..buy nothing just clean with whatever you got internally (carb cleaner?), adjustment without cleaning stuff first can send you down the wrong road...once all the above is checked then adjustment of hot/cold idle....and yes the bike starts and idles higher and the settles down without touching anything...The last thing is to remember that both the ECU and connector to ECU should be clean...some winter bikes and those that have a cracked/missing ECU/Computer connector protector (rubber thing) develope corrosion at the terminals (green) and get weird stuff happening... by your description i well guess engine idle control is dirty or stuck..buy nothing.

 

im,

Awesome, thank you so much for the list of known issues and concerns with this bike. You have given me a few things to check for sure. This has been a Michigan bike all of its life, but it is super clean. No-corrosion anywhere that I found. The idle control is worth a look. There is some grime here and there that I noticed when I had the air cleaner off. It does need a new air filter I think as well.

Thanks again, G.B.

 

Your bike should be idling
between 1,100 - 1,200 on start up. It should lower to 900-1,000 after a short period of time. Take a look at the Idle Speed Control (IAC) motor located forward of throttle body. Check to see that it moves when you start it up. If it does it is fine. If it doesn't then remove the air cleaner and clean it with throttle body cleaner. If it moves after you clean it you are good to go. If it doesn't then you should replace it. While you are there clean your throttle body paying attention to the two small holes at the top of the throat (air bleeds). Careful spraying in there it will spit back at you. Afterward disconnect the batter for 10-15 min & Resynch the IAC to the ECM. You can do this by reconnecting the battery. Then kill switch to RUN. Key switch ON for 5 sec. Key OFF for 10 sec. Repeat a second time.

The last thing you should adjust on an EFI bike is the idle setting. Make sure everything else is operational before you mess with it.

 

Thanks larsfum. Between what you have said and im, I am thinknig the IAC might be issue whether is it just dirty or inop. Thank you very much for the info. I really appreciate it.

G.B.