Expect the new rear mount to be in today, want to check the alignment, hoping an expert here can provide some guidance. After reading the FSM I have questions.

Here's the plan, put in the rear mount and leave loose, loosen the front mount. Start the bike and let it run for a few seconds then torque the mounts tight.

For alignment it says to raise the bike off the ground, wouldn't putting the lift under the engine mess with the alignment? It says to remove the top stabilizer bolt, jack, loosen mounths, then check. I'm planning on using a magnetic level for a clinometer to get it perfectly upright and a piece of string from the front to back brake rotor to see if they are in alignment.

Is this better done with the bike on the ground, no lift? It also says to have the mounts loose to do this, doesn't tightening them change the alignment slightly? Maybe I'm overthinking it and should just check the alignment when everything is tight and see if it's even off. Feedback appreciated, I want to do it once and be done.

 

I am no expert, but, I picked up two of these when I did my alignment after changing motor mounts:

http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-ga...der-34214.html

One for the front rotor and one for the rear. I don't have the FSM in front of me and it was last year when I did mine, but the alignment is to match the front rotor with the back.

Remember, your swing arm is mounted to the tranny, and your tranny is mounted to the engine. So, when aligning the engine, your moving the engine (sort of) and the swingarm and the wheel to match the front forks and wheel (rotor).

The running of the engine with the mounts loose is to help it settle into the mounts. The bike being on a jack that is under the frame would not affect anything in the alignment. Remeber the engine does not rest on the frame, it rests on the mounts. Thats why your wheels are supposed to be in the air.

Again don't have my manual in front of me, but I hope that explanation helps a little. It is an easier procedure than it sounds.

BTW, I must have done something right, she tracks true with no handers... YD

 

Am I looking at this wrong? I thought you set it straight up and down then adjusted the stabilizer to get the back rotor in line with the front, but is that adjuster actually making the back rotor be at 90 degrees when the front is? Looking at the link, it tilts the engine, I think I may have misunderstood what I'm aligning so I would actually need to be able to measure the front and rear rotor's at the same time. I thought I had read you were suppose to run a straight edge from back to front and align that.

 

When you jack it up you need to jack it by the frame and not the motor. You use a clinometer and check front rotor and then rear, adjust according to your findings.

 

Spanners, having a hard time getting it sturdy without jacking it by the engine. Sears red jack. Is it possible to get it close while resting on the wheels or lifters by the bottom of the engine? Other option I might try lifting it from the frame rails under the seat if I can get a strap through there.

 

Lifting by using the engine is not on old chap, you're going about this the wrong way. If you don't have a bike lift that can lift the bike level, then construct one while your bike is raised with the jack, then let the bike down onto your 'lift'. Use bricks or blocks plus lengths of wood.

 

Thanks. Didn't think of lifting and lowering on something. That should work. I grabbed one of these today.

 

Alignment dead on. It actually lifted easier with the mounts fixed the engine was lower in the frame than it is now only needed a couple wood blocks but everything is 90 degrees with the seat pan level. Thanks guys

 

Well done! Ever onward, so let us know how your bike is out on the road.

 

Hopefully later. Draining the fork oil now.