I finally got he clear timing view plug in and plan to time the bike properly to spec this weekend I think I have it close, but after reading a few articles and the book I have a question or two for the experts.

Nightrider has an article says to time at idle, then has a chart with timing at 1500, I assume to the single dot, I've read a few others that say to time at idle as well, still unclear what RPM to check it at.

I found this other article below which says to time the Evo at 2500 to the single dot. This article seems pretty clear and straightforward. I don't want to over complicate this with the VOES impact and when it cuts out, I would imagine that a different vacuum level VOES would require different minimum RPMs to time by, but the article says that 2500 is correct. Is 2500 the right RPM to time to the single dot by?

Can the plate be moved while running or is it best to shut down, move, restart and recheck for each turn of the plate?

　

http://metrohog.com/setting_bt_evo_timing.htm

 

What ignition are you running? What do the directions for that ignition say? Stock ignition?

And you know the clear plug is optional, right? As long as you don't mind some oil mist, big deal.

 

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It has stock ignition. I read to ground the voes to be sure it's not retarding the advance while setting it. Seems like there's 100 ways to do this. I know it can be done without the plug, but I wanted to attempt at not making a mess.

 

Hmm, I may have done mine wrong but I did not touch the Voes. I just set the idle at 1300 rpm and centered the single dot. Then I set my adjustable ignition to the 3rd curve to get rid of the lo end ping. Runs great no ping.. ??

 

. I'm running great no ping too but I know it's not set right. Seems like we'd have to ground VOES otherwise it would be retarded as it would be open at idle. I'm not sure but that's how I read it. If grounded I don't think it would matter if it was set at 900 or 2500 rpms.

 

A&8, you are not setting the stock module. You have to go by whatever directions came with what you have.

With the stock module (and SE for that matter) on MY BIKE, the factory shop manual says: Start engine, set at 13-1500 RPM, "good" is dot in the middle of the hole. Move the plate while it's running, it won't matter.

 

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I guess that's my question. The few things I've read say to get the rpms higher to ensure VOES is closed. On my bike it closes earlier than on a bagger, forgot what the manual says but I think it's in the 3.5-4.5 range. I believe it could vary up to 7. Maybe I'll time it per the manual then check it at 2500 or by grounding VOES to see how off it is.

 

Don't touch VOES, set to single dot at full advance which is either 2500 rpm or if no tacho just rev it until it stops advancing...this is the correct way to do it according to the manufacturer so I wouldn't **** about doing it any other way, no matter how convincing the argument.

 

Not to be indifferent but I just got off the phone with Dyndtek. With my 2000i adjustable ignition , he said," Grd Voes wire, OFF all dip switches, 1500 rpm, dot centered. Ignition has to have one screw tight to grd ignition or light will jump around. Again for 2000I adjustable ignition.

 

you can do it that way but you will be a few degrees off your timing mark is 35 deg. but your ign. is only set to 33 default so when you start your bike your going to be two degrees advanced that why I use TDC and a Dial back timing light

or program the 2000i curve one to max advance at 35 degrees then the way you mentioned will work perfect