EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Reading Spark Plugs.

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  #31  
Old 07-26-2014, 08:31 AM
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You admitted you have a problem, seems to be a trait of the Evo forum. Ya the Dyno can measure adjustments and get the most documented power as long as you have a good operator that doesn't get lazy but be ready, they rip the engine multiple times to get those numbers
 
  #32  
Old 07-27-2014, 02:23 PM
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After you hone and re-ring, no stupid heat cycles, no stupid break in oils. Fill it up with whatever you normally use, start it, check it for leaks, and then go ride it... please.
 
  #33  
Old 07-29-2014, 10:52 AM
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T-man.

I understand this theory and the many who suggest it. I had a link in post 19 that I read the article thoroughly to take the perspective of a man who has built over 6,000 motors.

It's such a critical choice.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
  #34  
Old 07-29-2014, 05:10 PM
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Tough decision, I'll follow the giddy up break in. Have been building line haul large diesel engines for many years, the manufactures that warranty them want hammer down as soon as oil pressure, no leaks, no noises and don't want them idled, need confidence in yourself
 
  #35  
Old 07-29-2014, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
T-man.

I understand this theory and the many who suggest it. I had a link in post 19 that I read the article thoroughly to take the perspective of a man who has built over 6,000 motors.

It's such a critical choice.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I kind of disagree with the mototune article as well, as I think it can be misinterpreted as "BANG THE REV LIMITER AS SOON AS THE MOTOR GETS HOT". Best thing to do is like I said... regular oil, check for leaks, warm up thoroughly, and then ride aggressively, going up to around 3300RPM before shifting, and use aggressive engine braking.
 
  #36  
Old 09-15-2014, 10:23 PM
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Here's a follow up.

Since adding the S&S Super E Shorty and putting in a Yost power tube I have had great performance and even topped it out at 104 MPH on a flat out run just the other day. I had put in a fresh set of plugs about a month ago before heading off for some riding in PA. Trailered the bike there and back. But just last week after a few thousand miles both of the plugs are like new with no signs of oil or carbon issues. It sort of blows my mind but I think the rings finally settled in and took care of the troubles I was having. I ran a full jug of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer in it too. I use to add the Lucas to stop the tapping noise that is a nuisance of the EVO engine so I thought I'd try some again, just on a whim. I can't point to anything in particular that set the rings, but thinking I was headed for a hone job and rings I have been riding my Tour Glide like a race bike at times. Just going hard through the gears and taking her up to 5.5k RPMs before shifting

I have to admit, other than having to reset the idle / air and back down the idle the Yost Power Tube doesn't seem to do anything other than a bit smoother idle quicker on warm up. I was hoping for better MPG but still get 38 when I'm heavy on the throttle and 42 when touring.

Most recently I replaced the 35K miles worn OEM stator with a Cycle Electric and didn't note any improvement in my issue of starting off with 13.6 without lights, 12.6 with and over several hours losing a few volts on the gauge while riding. No dimming issues, no slow starts, just a notable drop in voltage while riding. Then I added the CE Regulator and didn't have any improvement over the OEM. Well this week the Bikes on the Bricks was happening in Flint and I stopped by and talked with Mark and another rep from Baker and we got into a discussion about the issue and it was suggested to run a ground strap from the new Cycle Electric regulator direct to the engine. So that's my next attempt to cure the odd charging situation I'm having.

Also I drained out the fresh Formula from the tranny and went back to 80W140 (Lucas) and prefer the positive shift and the feel of running true gear lube in the tranny again.

Only disappointment is she redeveloped the inner primary seal leak again. I wanted to put my new Baker one piece in and my Indy told me he knew how to keep the race in place to prevent a shift and leak. Looks like the next time I go inner primary deep I'll be putting the Baker one piece in like I really wanted to. I may have another issue like a slight bend or alignment issue in the I/O mainshaft from the tranny to the clutch but the one piece is worth a try as far as I'm concerned.

It's been a great riding season for me and my old Harley and I look forward to the fall season which just crept in two weeks ago, way to early for me.
 
  #37  
Old 09-28-2018, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Why would you say that?
They don’t call KB’s KABOOMS for no reason!
 
  #38  
Old 10-05-2019, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
I do realize for the best, most precise reading of the plugs there is an elaborate way to do so. But if a plug is in the motor for a good number of miles and it's taken out and has signs of possible issues it just can't be disregarded that the accumulated miles has caused overall issues with the plugs.

I am seeing a very slight amount of white smoke from the exhaust, especially if I give it a quick rev while sitting. I also believe I'm noting some excessive oil use but I will do a thorough fluid change and then log the miles and the addition of oil to be more thoroughly accurate about this. Since the bike is running so well this summer I have been putting a lot of miles on it compared to other years.

The top end rebuild was done by a meticulous Evo Indy and I was very easy on breaking it in during the first 1K. BUT, after that when being able to now run it a little harder I had carb issues and was making many, possibly too hard, test runs and adjustments, and fear I may have caused some damage to my freshly rebuilt top end of the motor.

I'm just trying to decide where I am on the issue. Do I "just ride it" because it runs well, or do I address matters while the engine rebuild is at about the 4K mark? I don't have unlimited funds so addressing matters before they become worse and expensive is the whole point of the matter for me. I have a summer getaway coming up and want to be certain it's in the best shape it can be in while I have a little time before touring with it.

All the information I can get and feed back is helpful and appreciated ...always!
Well I would do a pressure test on heads. Than add a tiny bit of oil into plug holes and test it again. Also do a leak down test on heads. Look in your manual and it explains everything plain as day. It’s either rings or valves by what I’m reading. I like to wait till winter for tear downs if possible. That way your not missing out on riding.













Life’s journey isn’t arriving to your grave nice and neat. It’s sliding in sideways raged and torn saying holy **** what a ride!
 
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