The problem with starting performance mods is $500 turns to $1500 quickly because each part compliments the other in gains. I'm also a Woods cam fan but the EV27 is the most popular cam in history, the Woods cam sometimes needs the lifters set deeper in the lifter to tame the clacking so adjustable push tubes should be in the budget

Hardlife mentioned 10-1(EV27) can be reliable with spot on tuning and assuming you have a light bike, heavy bikes can aggravate even the best tuners trying to keep efficient power with no detonation out with this combo. If you enjoy tinkering then the 10-1 with W6 will challenge the sporty. If you want to stay safe then the 9.5-1 will be a good direction, can live with a lesser octane gas, won't be so temper mental with heat with detonation.

Going to speak for the power addicts on here, I am not one of them, Woods W6 at 10-1, Ultima 2000I ignition module set at 6000, timing curve set on 3, change the jets plus needle in the CV, this will get you into giddy up mode. Don't tell your wife you are doing it, tell her she has to drop the shorts if you win a race YOU WIN! If she still wins then you need to spend more money and think of what could of been.

My riding buddy runs a 80" with 10-1, my Mackie 580 cam, S&S carb and will embarrass bigger engines, kinda of a freak because it shouldn't on paper but love it.

 

So it sounds like 9.5 and EV27 is more along the lines of what Im looking for. Who should I look at for piston manufacturers? Also is the factory ignition OK to hold on to or will I need something different? Any guides on what jets to get for carbs?

Mike

 

Not my wallet but here is my suggestion with your budgetand the customary overages.
W6 cam, adjustable pushrods, 172?, 95? And a screaming eagle ignition. That's what I'm running on my fltr. The question marks are simply I can't remember if it is 195 and a 72. Bob Wood will tell you also that it's 2-1/2 turns on the mixture screw. He is awesome and will talk you through it all.
Good luck,
Tom

 

Which carb do you have?

 

I think JE makes some 9.5:1's for the Evo. Otherwise, you would have get some Wiseco 10:1's
and have them milled down. You could get by with the stock ignition, but I would upgrade ASAP. If you have a stock CV then 45 slow/180 main jets w/ a n65c or CVP needle will get you in the ballpark. You may have to play with needle sizes from there to get it dialed in.

Opinions vary on this, but I would skip the adjustable PRs. They arent necessary, and their only advantage is making the cam swap a little easier (if you do pistons this advantage would be negated anyway). I would spend that money on quality gaskets and getting the cylinders checked/bored/honed as required.

 

when I build a motor for a customer like you. there are a lot of factors that most ppl overlook and yes 9.6:1 is what I would shoot for in your case. but that number is a corrected number. when you buy a 10:1 piston your not going to have 10:1 compression. without doing work to the cylinders and heads. and yes you will need a good ignition.
ok first you have to decide witch cam you want. it plays a big role in your CR.
ill use the wood w-6 it has a 40* intake close ABDC
wiseco 10:1 pistons have a 12.9 cc dome.so if I were to build the motor with this piston and cam and stock bore and stroke. this is what I would do.


first set the cylinder deck height to .003 with a .030 head gasket that will give you .033 of quench witch is optimum
second I would mill the heads to 78cc for this build.
this will give you a corrected compression ratio of 9.66:1.
this type of build with a good pipe and a good street port job can produce up to 90 hp and still run pump gas with no pinging. one of the builds I did about 5 years ago was the same. hes got around 60k on it and still running strong.


talk to aces&8s his build is real close to what I posted he used the ev27

 

The op's wallet just cried and sobbed after reading this ^^^.

 

lol the price of power is not cheap. and what I tell my customers either do it right the first time or don't do it at all. almost every cam swap ive done has came back within 2 months wanting more power.

 

My 2-cents.....if you want reliability, simply leave it alone and run it stock. BUT....I know we're not going to do that.

 

I've had it stock for 3 seasons... I am more or less happy with it, but if I could get more power at minimal financial and reliability cost Id be all about that.

If there is no drop in solution to the compression than maybe Ill just do the cam.

Mike