Shouldn't I be able to unground it by cracking the throttle in the garage?

That should make the green light on my ignition go out.

BTW, I suspected the VOES before I installed the new ignition and took it to the dealer.

They said it tested OK, but, who flippin knows what they did to check it.

 

Get a meter on it. On your ignition harness it's the purple and white wire. Should be pin 6 but you can verify in your manual. Stick it in the back you don't even have to unplug it. Put the other one to pin 8 or the ground or to chassis ground. You should be able to see it as and open circuit and closed circuit reading down to zero when you open the trottle. If it doesn't ground out to zero just replace it. I put a small led on mine just to watch or while riding to make sure it was working

 

I'll do that tonight.

 

Just thought of something. If I disconnect the VOES, and take a low rpm/speed ride, and the miss goes away, that pretty much nails it, right?

 

Wrong. Disconnecting voes will give you nothing. You'd have to run a wire from pin to pin to ground it and lock the advance in but I think you might have an intermittent problem like I had. If you unplug it your in the retarded map until a certain rpm. If you ground it or run a wire from pin 6 to ground or just jump it to 8 you'll be driving as though voes was switched on all the time. You could do that I guess but go easy on it as it won't retard at all under throttle and load.

Describe your miss, what gear and speed. Is it a miss or shake?

 

Those jets are way to small for a post 2004 S&S carb.

 

You sure about that Bubba?

 

It's like the fuel is cutting in and out. I don't have a tach, but, as I ride through my neighborhood in second, doing about 20-30, you can hear it cutting out intermittently but, you really can't feel it.

As soon as I pass a certain RPM, it's gone.....at highway speeds, it's running smooth as silk......

Somebody suggested my float may be too low. I did change the bowl recently, but, it was doing this before that.

If I unplug the Vacuum line to the VOES, won't that make it run differently?

 

VOES runs off vacuum. When you have vacuum say at idle or cruising steady it holds vacuum, closes it's internal switch and grounds out advancing the ignition. When there's low vacuum it retarda the ignition by leaving the circuit open

If you unplug the vacuum or unplug the harness you are just forcing it to retard and if it's failed it's already doing that.

If you're ground it your forcing it to operate as it was fully closed meaning vacuum closing voes causing the circuit to ground out.

By running a jumper from pin 6 to 8 on the harness if your 6 is a violet/white wire (check your wiring diagram) you can quickly see if it run different. Is still use an ohm meter so you can see what the voes is sending out if it's grounding at all or if it's weak.

Might not be your problem but it's simple to rule out. Some days mine worked others it didn't. They all don't fail 100%.

 

If you call S&S and talk to a tech he will tell you to run a .0295 intermediate and a .072 main.

Those numbers you posted are for a pre 2004 carb.

Don't take my word for it give them a call.