Another ignorant question by someone trying to learn...VOES
#21
ok how the voes works. it doesn't retard the timing it advances it when the voes switch is active it uses a max advance curve when the switch is off WOT or under a load it uses a less aggressive curve. the only thing that taking it off will hurt is off idle throttle response and fuel mileage. I don't use voes on my bikes because I don't care about fuel mileage and I use big cams that don't produce much hp on the bottom so off idle response means nothing to me.
so if you bike is a daily driver and mildly built or stock and you love putting a lot miles on it leave the voes switch on your bike.
so if you bike is a daily driver and mildly built or stock and you love putting a lot miles on it leave the voes switch on your bike.
#22
ok how the voes works. it doesn't retard the timing it advances it when the voes switch is active it uses a max advance curve when the switch is off WOT or under a load it uses a less aggressive curve. the only thing that taking it off will hurt is off idle throttle response and fuel mileage. I don't use voes on my bikes because I don't care about fuel mileage and I use big cams that don't produce much hp on the bottom so off idle response means nothing to me.
so if you bike is a daily driver and mildly built or stock and you love putting a lot miles on it leave the voes switch on your bike.
so if you bike is a daily driver and mildly built or stock and you love putting a lot miles on it leave the voes switch on your bike.
This just about guarantees me that I don't have a VOES...that's the one thing lacking on my bike.
#23
sweet ! ...VOES tells the ignition to advance, which makes for a more efficient fuel burn. That gives you better mileage, cleaner exhaust, better overall driveability at part-throttle operation, sweeter farts, more muscles, more hair and all-around irresistability to women. There is no significant downside to the VOES !!
#24
My Glide ran like a pig when my vacuum hose, linked to the VOES, split, so I don't believe this talk of our bikes being fine without one. The stock ignition system, plus the aftermarket one I ran for many years, were both designed expressly to use one. The VOES itself is a small plastic device fastened to the rear of the horn mount, with two wires going to it. If your bike is running fine without one then it probably has an aftermarket ignition system.
My Crane HI4E has a lead for it and being a street bike I connected it up.
Taking the VOES out of a street bike would take some precise adjusting in order to not have improper timing at key points of operation.
Racing bikes however rely on higher RPMS for the majority of their runs so not having it, and adjusting the timing for the higher RPM constant is appropriate.
I it's not just a matter of having a capped off vacuum port on the carb, most operate off the intake in aftermarket carbs. Open your eyes and look under the tank for another rubber hose and the little black VOES device, or trace the brown lead that connects to it. Odds are it's on a street bike unless it's a real performance machine for racing.
#25
#26
#27
the still confusion is abound
voes as stated in the tan side bar is default to retard and that is simple explain
as your crusing along at a steady speed on the HWY say 65 MPH and you come to an incline a good size hill in the road - i know Texas has no hills so think of it a pile of mexicans in the road -- anyway the engine on the bike if you held the throttle steady or turned it for more power - the intakes vacuum will drop and that drop will trigger the Voes switch, and in turn it tells the ignition to drop 10 degrees of timing from the total advance of 36 degrees, so by doing this the engine only sees 26 degrees till the up hill load is gone as you go over the top of the hill the advance returns to the normal 36 degrees -- this is all done to keep the engine in top condition and not allow the 36 degrees of timing with an incorrect load put on it cause a spark knock ( pinging ) and that puts holes in the head and piston top -- now as i work on lots of older bikes i have a alloy flat head head that had the timing adjusted to advanced to get more power is a guess, well you can see what it did to the metal around the sparkplug and the other picture is one that has very very little
voes as stated in the tan side bar is default to retard and that is simple explain
as your crusing along at a steady speed on the HWY say 65 MPH and you come to an incline a good size hill in the road - i know Texas has no hills so think of it a pile of mexicans in the road -- anyway the engine on the bike if you held the throttle steady or turned it for more power - the intakes vacuum will drop and that drop will trigger the Voes switch, and in turn it tells the ignition to drop 10 degrees of timing from the total advance of 36 degrees, so by doing this the engine only sees 26 degrees till the up hill load is gone as you go over the top of the hill the advance returns to the normal 36 degrees -- this is all done to keep the engine in top condition and not allow the 36 degrees of timing with an incorrect load put on it cause a spark knock ( pinging ) and that puts holes in the head and piston top -- now as i work on lots of older bikes i have a alloy flat head head that had the timing adjusted to advanced to get more power is a guess, well you can see what it did to the metal around the sparkplug and the other picture is one that has very very little
#28
the still confusion is abound
voes as stated in the tan side bar is default to retard and that is simple explain
as your crusing along at a steady speed on the HWY say 65 MPH and you come to an incline a good size hill in the road - i know Texas has no hills so think of it a pile of mexicans in the road -- anyway the engine on the bike if you held the throttle steady or turned it for more power - the intakes vacuum will drop and that drop will trigger the Voes switch, and in turn it tells the ignition to drop 10 degrees of timing from the total advance of 36 degrees, so by doing this the engine only sees 26 degrees till the up hill load is gone as you go over the top of the hill the advance returns to the normal 36 degrees -- this is all done to keep the engine in top condition and not allow the 36 degrees of timing with an incorrect load put on it cause a spark knock ( pinging ) and that puts holes in the head and piston top -- now as i work on lots of older bikes i have a alloy flat head head that had the timing adjusted to advanced to get more power is a guess, well you can see what it did to the metal around the sparkplug and the other picture is one that has very very little
voes as stated in the tan side bar is default to retard and that is simple explain
as your crusing along at a steady speed on the HWY say 65 MPH and you come to an incline a good size hill in the road - i know Texas has no hills so think of it a pile of mexicans in the road -- anyway the engine on the bike if you held the throttle steady or turned it for more power - the intakes vacuum will drop and that drop will trigger the Voes switch, and in turn it tells the ignition to drop 10 degrees of timing from the total advance of 36 degrees, so by doing this the engine only sees 26 degrees till the up hill load is gone as you go over the top of the hill the advance returns to the normal 36 degrees -- this is all done to keep the engine in top condition and not allow the 36 degrees of timing with an incorrect load put on it cause a spark knock ( pinging ) and that puts holes in the head and piston top -- now as i work on lots of older bikes i have a alloy flat head head that had the timing adjusted to advanced to get more power is a guess, well you can see what it did to the metal around the sparkplug and the other picture is one that has very very little
The mechanic at this shop advanced my timing by 4 degrees to gain about 3 hp on the top end (although it still doesn't pull anywhere near as hard as it did before we messed up the settings). I have no confidence in this shop...primarily b/c of this mechanic and all the BS he has fed me. Unfortunately, I don't know of any other shop in the area that can do just about anything...or one that has a dyno. I think I'm going to write the owner a letter just to see where it goes...
#29
ok we will try this again the ignition stock/aftermarket has two curves. all the voes does is switch between the two curves if the voes wire is cut or the vacuum line cut it will default to the minimum curve. if you have a bad vacuum leak it wont build enough vacuum to trip the voes so it will stay on the minimum curve. if your bike runs really bad with the voes unplugged you have other problems all that you should notice when unplugged is lower idle speed and a little sluggish on the top end. if your voes is stuck on there's a big problem you could trash the pistons and heads from spark knock. as far as the stock ignition goes you have to run a voes if you ever want to see full advance. with an aftermarket you can set the minimum advance curve to go full advance so theres no need for a voes.
#30
You shouldn't need a dyno to set the timing proper. Once the static timing is set you have 4 options for timing. One of those should be right if the motor is stock or fairly modified for the street (not a drag bike). Try them all. If it still doesn't run right something else is wrong.
If it is still hard to start after static timing is set I would check TDC by pulling the front spark plug to verify the TDC mark is in the right place. Use a wooden dowel down the hole while you move the wheel while in a high gear. Or use some other more intelligent way than I do. Don't drop the dowel!
If you need a programming cable to change the dead revs for kick starting they are $45 (shipped) here: https://sites.google.com/site/vrusb2000i/
If it is still hard to start after static timing is set I would check TDC by pulling the front spark plug to verify the TDC mark is in the right place. Use a wooden dowel down the hole while you move the wheel while in a high gear. Or use some other more intelligent way than I do. Don't drop the dowel!
If you need a programming cable to change the dead revs for kick starting they are $45 (shipped) here: https://sites.google.com/site/vrusb2000i/
Last edited by Rob85WG; 09-02-2014 at 08:36 PM.